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Titanium Battery and/or Board fried?
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Fresh-Faced Recruit
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Germany
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Hi all,
I have a three-year-old PowerBook G4 Titanium 550. Its original battery had become rather short-breathed recently, retaining probably about 30 minutes worth of charge. Additionally, I had three instances of the PowerBook suddenly shutting down without the usual warnings. The last time, I heard a "plop" like it happens sometimes when plugging in the power adapter (a short circuit). Also, the battery display was dead.
So, I thought, time for a new battery. I got one tonight for 130 Euros. It had three of four lights of charge. Then I put it into the PowerBook and -- it showed up as having 0% of charge! Also, its display was dead just as the other battery's. Did I fry the new battery? What could be wrong with my PowerBook? How expensive could this be? Anything I could do beyond resetting the PMU?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Martin
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Professional Poster
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Long Beach, CA
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speculation here... on the TiBooks, there is a cable that runs from the battery connector to the logic board. Those are the only two parts. For your sake, I hope it's the cable.
Of course, attempt a PMU reset, but I doubt that will make a difference.
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ACSA 10.4/10.3, ACTC 10.3, ACHDS 10.3
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Fresh-Faced Recruit
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Germany
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Originally posted by Detrius:
speculation here... on the TiBooks, there is a cable that runs from the battery connector to the logic board. Those are the only two parts. For your sake, I hope it's the cable.
Of course, attempt a PMU reset, but I doubt that will make a difference.
Thanks for the info. I also posted a message on http://discussions.info.apple.com/ in the "Battery indicator shows stays on 0% charge" thread (msg # 81), where I included more details. It seems that many people have similar problems with these "smart" batteries. Will see on Monday how things work out.
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Professional Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
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When you say "I bought a battery for 130 Euros", did you buy a used battery? If so, the lights don't mean anything, it could be dead from the beginning...
If you bought it new, then you should return it, etc.
Did you reset the PRAM?
During startup, hold down command-option-p-r through at least 4 chimes, then release. Or use the open firmware method.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=2238
USING OPEN FIRMWARE:
1) reboot while holding option-command-o-f (boot into open firmware)
2) type: reset-nvram (return)
3) type: reset-all (return)
4) the Mac should restart on its own, if the commands have been typed correctly.
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Fresh-Faced Recruit
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Germany
Status:
Offline
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Originally posted by amazing:
When you say "I bought a battery for 130 Euros", did you buy a used battery? If so, the lights don't mean anything, it could be dead from the beginning...
If you bought it new, then you should return it, etc.
Did you reset the PRAM?
During startup, hold down command-option-p-r through at least 4 chimes, then release. Or use the open firmware method.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=2238
USING OPEN FIRMWARE:
1) reboot while holding option-command-o-f (boot into open firmware)
2) type: reset-nvram (return)
3) type: reset-all (return)
4) the Mac should restart on its own, if the commands have been typed correctly.
I bought it from a computer store that sold them at bulk prices, brand new. As I said, it had three lights showing at the beginning.
I was at the store today and they said it's probably the DC board. I won't have this repaired, I was going to get a new powerbook anyway. Thanks for your help!
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Professional Poster
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Long Beach, CA
Status:
Offline
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Originally posted by Snowman:
I bought it from a computer store that sold them at bulk prices, brand new. As I said, it had three lights showing at the beginning.
I was at the store today and they said it's probably the DC board. I won't have this repaired, I was going to get a new powerbook anyway. Thanks for your help!
Keep in mind that they saw the machine and I didn't, but based on your description, I don't see how the DC-in board could be possible.
If it is the DC board, it should be a cheap part and a relatively easy install.
BTW, you can see where the battery connects if you lift up the keyboard.
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ACSA 10.4/10.3, ACTC 10.3, ACHDS 10.3
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