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wpc33 · Jul 1, 2008, 09:54 PM

Hi, I have a G4 iBook, 1GHz
The AC works, and will power the iBook, but without it, nada.
Two batteries tested, that worked before I opened the thing up and successfully repaired a video issue, and the DC is non-existent.

The battery indicator in the menubar even detects it. It tells me it's at 98%, and as soon as I take it out, it notices. Fully functional it seems, and I've restarted several times, but if I unpluc the AC, it's off. The iBook knows it has a battery, it just won't take the juice!

I opened it up again and double-checked every wire and everything else I could see. I could not find any info on this, the battery connector I guess, anywhere. Not on ifixit.com either. Something just went haywire, and I beg of you all to try and help me figure it out.
THANK YOU!

Cold Warrior · Jul 1, 2008, 09:58 PM

Reset the PMU
Resetting PowerBook and iBook Power Management Unit (PMU)

See if that helps.

wpc33 · Jul 1, 2008, 10:07 PM

I've tried that several times, and nothing. Excellent suggestion though, thanks. Any other ideas?
This is so weird

ibook_steve · Jul 1, 2008, 11:44 PM

The battery is probably dead. Just because the machine detects the battery doesn't necessarily mean that the actual cells are working correctly anymore. All it means is that the computer can communicate with the circuit board in the battery, and that circuit is getting false info from the cells themselves. Time for a new battery.

Steve

wpc33 · Jul 2, 2008, 01:39 AM

I have two batteries, both of which worked perfectly before I opened it up, both only about 75 cycles in. I don't need new batteries. I wish it was that simple. I have no idea what's actually wrong here...

ibook_steve · Jul 2, 2008, 03:09 AM

When you push the buttons on these batteries, do they show that they are charged?

What OS are you running and what updates have you applied? If I recall, there may have been a battery update at some point to fix issues like this.

Dr. Wahnsinn · Jul 3, 2008, 02:43 PM

This may or may not be relevant to your problem, but many years ago I had a similar problem with a PowerBook 145b. The PB worked only when used with the AC adaptor and would not charge the installed battery nor would it run on any battery - even if the battery was known good and fully charged. Turns out it was a blown fuse on the logic board.

wpc33 · Jul 3, 2008, 02:45 PM

Originally Posted by Dr. Wahnsinn

Turns out it was a blown fuse on the logic board.

What did you do?? Was it fixable?

wpc33 · Jul 3, 2008, 02:46 PM

Originally Posted by ibook_steve

When you push the buttons on these batteries, do they show that they are charged?

What OS are you running and what updates have you applied? If I recall, there may have been a battery update at some point to fix issues like this.

Yes, and I have done restores with both tiger and leopard. I wish it was something as simple as that

Dr. Wahnsinn · Jul 4, 2008, 12:06 AM

Originally posted by wpc33
What did you do?? Was it fixable?

It was fixable and I did it myself.

I haven't seen an iBook G4 logic board so I can't tell you if what I did to my old PB 145b could be done to your iBook. It's also probable the logic board fuses, if it has any, are much smaller and packed right up next to other components. I would only recommend that someone try this if they can live with their actions should they brick their computer.

If I remember correctly, the logic board had two or three fuses. I went with the one nearest the power connector. It was a rectangular white component with voltage and amp markings. The logic board ID was F1 or F2. I simply wrote down the fuse specs and made a trip to the closest electronic supply store. They had only fuses in the resistor form factor, but I made that work. A minute of soldering and my Powerbook was back in proper working order.

I did it myself because local repair shops quoted prices much higher than what I paid for the PB, and also because I enjoy doing things myself.

Dalar · Jul 6, 2008, 11:42 PM

Hey folks, came across this thread on the googles!

Anyhow, for months my ibook has had this issue, of the AC being the only way to power it. No matter what battery I put in it, the battery will charge, will appear as legit, will even keep the laptop powered when sleeping, but will not power the laptop on and unplugged. If I unplug the AC, I get a couple seconds of "Calculating.." then POOF, off. This also happens if I try to boot with no AC adapter.. it'll chime then die. When I restart with an AC adapter, the time is reset to 1969.

I can't figure out why this happened, and I can't seem to find a culprit resister or anything else blown. Any help as to where to look inside the thing would be appreciated. I've of course tried every reset-trick out there -- NVRAM, PRAM, PMU, known-good batteries, running the system with the bottom case removed (to ensure the contacts are connecting well enough), and I've even tried other DC-IN boards.

The only other oddity I see, is if I boot it with just battery, before it dies the white sleep light will generally flash, as well the caps-lock light.

Any help out there is appreciated greatly! I hate being tethered to a power adapter.. especially when I have a brand new battery here that would last for hours if I could get batteries working...

wpc33 · Jul 7, 2008, 01:36 AM

Mine won't do a darn thing with just the battery. I don't get an attempted boot, or even a pause of life when I unplug it.
I was going to take it apart and look for a fuse I could change, and if that didn't work out, I would get a new DC board for $15.
You've tried DC boards, and it didn't work for you....very frightening for me! But I think I have no other choice but to try, regardless. My symptoms are ever-so-different from yours...not much though.

Thank you to everybody who has posted so far! I have subscribed to this thread, so please, anybody, post if you have anything to say!
THANK YOU

wpc33 · Jul 7, 2008, 02:02 AM

Here's the top of the mobo. Which one is the fuse? Dr. Whansinn, I'm looking in your experienced direction!

Is it that grey square near the battery compartment(Bottom-center)?

wpc33 · Jul 7, 2008, 03:11 AM

I found the fuse. It's a ceramic rectangle.

I have to get a voltmeter to test if it still works. Any tips?

ibook_steve · Jul 7, 2008, 01:13 PM

Please do not try to do this yourself. Fuses and part references are different across different machines. And if indeed a fuse did pop, there's probably a good reason for it, and just replacing the fuse isn't going to fix the real problem. You risk making the problem worse than it already is. You should either look into getting Apple or some repair place to fix this or buy a replacement motherboard.

Steve

wpc33 · Jul 7, 2008, 07:09 PM

Not to sound insolent, my friend, but if I'm gonna replace the logic board, what do I have to lose? I will try to make what is otherwise garbage something good, before it gets discarded.

"The easiest job in the world has to be coroner. Surgery on dead people. What's the worst thing that could happen? If everything went wrong, maybe you'd get a pulse"
-Dennis Miller

You do make an excellent point, though Steve. Thanks for your advice.

Dr. Wahnsinn · Jul 8, 2008, 07:22 PM

Sorry, I have no real experience with the innards of the model of iBook that you have. Unfortunately, I'm also not enough of a hotshot to pick out a component from those photos. I wish I could help.

There could be more than one fuse on the board. As ibook_steve said, replacing the fuse doesn't address the problem of why the fuse blew in the first place. A faulty or incorrect AC adaptor could be the culprit. Another possibility could be the power jack on the iBook.

Steve is correct in pointing out that attempting to repair this could leave you with an iBrick. If it's worth the risk to you, be sure to use only as much heat as necessary to solder and unsolder the fuse, make sure not to touch any other components with the soldering iron, observe proper anti-static precautions, and do/don't do anything else that you should/shouldn't do.

wpc33 · Jul 8, 2008, 07:28 PM

Thanks Dr, and thanks again to Steve. I discovered a tiny, white, rectangular tic-tac lookin' fuse on the bottom, near the DC Board input as well as on the topside of the board near the battery connector. That's all of 'em, and they are both A-OK. Good news, as my only remaining action is to get a new DC board for $12-$20 and hope that cinches it.

If not, the board is messed beyond my comprehension, and I will just sell it, as-is, with full disclosure.

I do look forward to the new DC board coming, though! I will post the results.