[Macola]

I have a Gigabit G4 that I recently upgraded with a GigaDesigns dual 1.4 GHz. I've noticed, since then, that the power supply fan puts out a blast of air hot enough to raise the room temperature by a couple of degrees over an hour or so. I guess this is to be expected, since it's the only fan sucking air out of the case, but I was wondering if anyone has come up with creative case mods to help cooling?

Also, the PS fan is really loud...

[Lateralus]

I bought the same upgrade for my QuickSilver. It raised my internal case temperature to around 120 degrees. I couldn't think of any ways, given the size constraints of the case, to provide additional cooling without ruining the case. So, I opted to do an ATX conversion.

The decision to do the ATX conversion was finalized, not by the hot air coming from the back of the PSU or the internal case temperature, but the fact that one day when dropping down the case door to take a gander at the components, I touched the area of the motherboard in the area of the CPU and noticed that it too was hot.

So, with the nightmare on my mind of my motherboard crapping out any sooner than it normally would have because of the temperaure, I picked up a Kingwin aluminum case from NewEgg for around $110 with shipping. *Very* nice, high quality case with great airflow. My internal temperature is now around 85 degrees and I no longer feel the hot air coming from the back of the PSU.

[Macola]

So, my guess is that you modded the ATX power supply since I think the QS has the same (22-pin) connector as the GigE? I recall seeing some instructions (maybe at xlr8) but can't find them now. If you have instructions somewhere, please post a link.

I think this may be the only solution. I did think of cutting a hole in the case and adding another fan, but I'd prbably end up ruining the case...

[Lateralus]

Actually I kept the original Apple PSU. The power hookup is more than long enough to my surprise.

[Macola]

Well, I'm still looking for better cooling. I thought about the whole PC ATX case swap, but decided I liked the Apple graphite case too much to do that just yet. So I started looking for intake fans that would fit in the Zip drive (3.5") bay, and discovered there were none. If anyone can prove me wrong, you'll have my eternal gratitude

My plan for now is to remove the speaker and attach a 60 mm fan, which will just about fit in that space (I just need to drill holes for the screws). If that doesn't do the trick, I may take the more drastic step of seeing if I can cut out the 3.5" bay into a 5.25" one, and then put in a bay HD cooler which will serve as an intake fan.

[Kami]

How about using a PCI slot cooler fan. I have one installed in my MDD blowing hot air out of the top portion of the case. It dropped the temp in the case about 5 degrees C

[Macola]

Originally posted by Kami:
How about using a PCI slot cooler fan. I have one installed in my MDD blowing hot air out of the top portion of the case. It dropped the temp in the case about 5 degrees C

I did try one (in a PCI slot) but what I really need is an intake, not exhaust. My fan in place of the speaker has helped a little (I don't have a temperature monitor so I can't tell exactly). Now I have some ideas for converting an old Zip drive into a bay cooler--maybe I'll patent it if it works

[Link]

Great to hear you finally pulled off the ATX mod, PMM. And so I have a few questions:

1. How did it go? Were there any mods needed to the case.. any problems? How's the heatsink and all?

2. Any pictures?

That should be all

[Lateralus]

Well, regardless of what I had been told and read and what I told you, the Kingwin I bought did not have Mac-ATX board mounts pre-drilled. I had to drlll them myself.

It wasn't too hard doing the actual drilling. What was hard was holding the drill still enough to not screw up the hole, because having it off even by 1/5 of an inch would make it worthless. Of the seven or eight holes I drilled, I only ended up being able to use 4. Which, is more than enough considering two would have been sufficient to hold the board in place.

The heatsink/daughtercard board mount holes are all the ones I screwed up (damn you god!!!). So the daughtercard is snapped in place and being held in with one of the three screws it is supposed to be fastened down with. But it isn't like I kick my machine or anything. I don't run OS 9.

Anyways, I am quite pleased with the results. The case is very sexy, very solid, and it looks great with the subtle blue LED case fans I bought and black bezel optical drives.

[Lateralus]

And no pictures.

I had a nice digi cam that I sold a few months back when I was suffering a cash bleed. But since selling it, it seems like I have had many reasons to use it... which I didn't when I had it.

I'll probably pick one up or borrow one soon. Everybody I've talked to online is anxious to see the G4 and I'm anxious to show off all my hard work.

[Macola]

Yes, pics would be great

How did you handle the front panel connections? My GigE has the power/LED, reset, and programmer switch (which I don't need) but I'm not sure if I want to snip wires and reconnect to the switches that come with an ATX case. It would be much better if could use the original Apple panel.

[Lateralus]

As opposed to just leaving the front panel setup laying inside the case or trying to screw it to the left side panel, I took off the right side panel, ran the front panel cable from the motherboard to the front of the machine to where the front panel assembly for the case had been (removed it all), and screwed the screwed front panel circuit board there. I then glued a piece of plastic to the reset switch of the case so that when pushed, it hits the power button on the front panel circuit board.

If I want to access the reset or programmer's switch, I need to pop off the front panel of the case. Not a big deal though since I never do.

[oojacoboo]

check out http://www.macmod.com. I have a mod guide on there that will show you how to cool your mac with a water cooling system.