 |
 |
iBook G3 Fix and Funk
|
 |
|
 |
|
Professional Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: In the South
Status:
Offline
|
|
I have a dual USB ibook that I have since replaced. So, now I want to fix the problem with the display- (it won't stay on) The CD tray (it won't stay in) - The latch (it won't stay shut).
How do I figure out if it is just the connector with the display?
Where can I get a replacement CD tray?
Then I want to paint the Book. Actually- my friend will do that part- he has experience with replica props. But what kind of paint do you recommend?
Where do I start?
Any links or help would be appreciated.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
Professional Poster
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: UK
Status:
Offline
|
|
First, the best/easiest way to fix the CD is to get a new optical drive. Get a combo drive or something. Since you have to disect the iBook for painting, it shouldn't be any extra hassle to fit it.
To find a drive that will work, check the drive database at www.xlr8yourmac.com.
Word of warning about the screen: When it goes 'off', does it go right off? Check (in good light) that you cannot see a faint screen image when the screen is 'off'. It could be the backlight which is faulty. It could be just the connector, but it could also be the data cable or the inverter. If you're really unlucky, it could be the motherboard. Not so likely though.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
Professional Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: In the South
Status:
Offline
|
|
Looks like I can find a compatible drive... But I'm not sure if I want to spend the cash considering the one I have does work- it just pops open all the time.
I'm working on figuring out what is wrong with the display...
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
Fresh-Faced Recruit
Join Date: Sep 2004
Status:
Offline
|
|
I can tell you with 90% certainty what the display problem is. I've fixed it on more than a couple ibooks. The cable leading from the mainboard to the panel has been damaged from the stress of opening and closing the lid. You have 2 options. the first is to buy a replacement cable. The second is to cut out the center portion of the cable and solder replacement cables into place. I have done the second a few times now. It's not too difficult to do, and I believe there are around 8 different wires. On the last one I did I used the cabling from a mouse. hope this helps.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
Professional Poster
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: UK
Status:
Offline
|
|
The drive replacement suggestion was intended to be an upgrade. No reason you can't fit a DVDRW in there if you want.
The problem with the eject mechanism on these drives, is that they rely on small A shaped solenoids. I think its these which 'break' - I had one go on a powerbook, no visible damage, just stopped working as you describe.
You could possibly replace one, but its fiddly, and you'd have to buy another drive to get one anyway, even if it was a broken one.
I just think slot-load drives are more practical for notebooks. I picked up an untested CDRW on eBay which I fitted in a powerbook. It cost GB£10, and it worked perfectly. Search for PC drives. You have to mod some of them for full functionality, but they are a whole lot cheaper.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
Senior User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Status:
Offline
|
|
IMHO, this computer is not worth any money. iBook G3's are turds.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
Professional Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: In the South
Status:
Offline
|
|
Originally posted by freebasen:
I can tell you with 90% certainty what the display problem is. I've fixed it on more than a couple ibooks. The cable leading from the mainboard to the panel has been damaged from the stress of opening and closing the lid. You have 2 options. the first is to buy a replacement cable. The second is to cut out the center portion of the cable and solder replacement cables into place. I have done the second a few times now. It's not too difficult to do, and I believe there are around 8 different wires. On the last one I did I used the cabling from a mouse. hope this helps.
Helpful.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
Professional Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: In the South
Status:
Offline
|
|
Originally posted by osxpinot:
IMHO, this computer is not worth any money. iBook G3's are turds.
Not helpful.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
Forum Regular
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: South Carolina
Status:
Offline
|
|
Originally posted by freebasen:
I can tell you with 90% certainty what the display problem is. I've fixed it on more than a couple ibooks. The cable leading from the mainboard to the panel has been damaged from the stress of opening and closing the lid. You have 2 options. the first is to buy a replacement cable. The second is to cut out the center portion of the cable and solder replacement cables into place. I have done the second a few times now. It's not too difficult to do, and I believe there are around 8 different wires. On the last one I did I used the cabling from a mouse. hope this helps.
So you'd solder 8 different cables into the middle of the ribbon to reconstruct it? I'd like to learn a bit more about this as I have a three or four Wallstreet powerbooks, all of which break inverter cables at one time or another.
|
"But the beauty of Grace is that it makes life not fair."
My Flickr
|
| |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
Dedicated MacNNer
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Old Country
Status:
Offline
|
|
Sounds to like your going to need a new top case (to fix the latch)
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
Fresh-Faced Recruit
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Iowa
Status:
Offline
|
|
|
(Last edited by podshop; Jan 26, 2005 at 01:20 PM.
)
|
|
Christopher Anderson
PodShop
iDrops: Clean, polish, and remove scratches from iPod, iBook, etc.
PodHolder: Clear acrylic stand/display for iPod.
http://podshop.com
|
| |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
Professional Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: In the South
Status:
Offline
|
|
Thanks- right now the book is in 4 pieces. Afraid to go further. I'll look into those more though... stay tuned.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
Mac Elite
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hong Kong
Status:
Offline
|
|
I bought a replacement reed switch cable assembley after trying to solder the broken wires for the backlight. Installing a new reed switch is a little less painful, but you still need to strip most of the machinese to route the cable properly. take photos as you strip it down so you can replace the screws in order, I had to do mine twice before I matched up all the screws with the correct position for each. It is also very time comsuming - I spend best part of a day opening the case carefully and stripping the chassis down and then another 6-8 hours to reassemble everything in order and making sure everything closed and fit together - the latch was sticking, but that working again. It all has been working fine now 6 months since i replace the reed switch.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
Mac Elite
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hong Kong
Status:
Offline
|
|
You may also consider swapping the tiny hard drive for a faster and larger capacity hard drive, while you have it all stripped down. I only thought of this as I was almost done the reassemble!
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
Professional Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: In the South
Status:
Offline
|
|
Well the latest is I took it all apart- put it all back together. Now I have no backlight. I keep futzing with it, but i think I killed it.

|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
Posting Junkie
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Calgary
Status:
Offline
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
 |
 |
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|

|
|
 |
Forum Rules
|
 |
 |
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
|
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
|