[ironknee]

Hello, I am chugging along with my BWG3...at 350 mhz/

Is there an EASY way to push the clock speed up withoout me screwing up everything and then have a reason to buy a new Tibook?

Thanks

Sam

[muttfree]

see this page for complete instructions, photos and warnings !
http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/G3-ZONE/yosemite/OC.html

Very easy, fast and best of all..... FREE

I did my B&W from 350 to 450 almost a year ago and it's still runnin strong. Being the overcautious person that I am, I also added a small cpu fan to the top of the heatsink..... Not REALLY necessary, but I tend to prefer the "be safe rather than sorry" routine. I get temps only in the 50-60F range, even after hours of hard Photoshop/internet/appleworks use

please post back here with any questions and/or results, or email me if you wish

HTH......

[ironknee]

damn,,,,I mean thanks

O will try it and let everyone know

sa

[littlegreenspud]

Hi,

I clocked my B/W 350 to 450 nearly a year ago it works great - no overheating problems at all. A great way to get a free speed boost!

nigel

[ironknee]

golly

the site looks complicated.

i have a 350 ehat's the most stable upgrade? 400?

sigh, help i am just a mortal with technology

thanks

sm

[Cipher13]

Originally posted by ironknee:
[QB]i have a 350 ehat's the most stable upgrade? 400?/QB]

Depends on the chip. 450, maybe even 500.

Try it. Test 500 - if the computer is unstable, take it to 450. Then 400. Etc.

[Eugene]

If you overclock:

1) go to a hardware store and get some 4 x 1.25 screws.
2) get a 50x50x10 or 50x50x15 mm DC fan.

I have this Sunon blowing on my CPU: http://millisec.safeshopper.com/52/481.htm
http://millisec.safeshopper.com/ http://2cooltek.safeshopper.com/ http://phamcomputer.safeshopper.com/ http://www.plycon.com/ http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/ http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/

3) Consider removing the heatsink pad and using thermal compound. I use Arctic Silver II. Use a paper thin amount on the die only...less than paper thin actually.

4) Also consider buying some autobody 2000 grit sandpaper and smoothing the bottomside of the heatsink. The shinier it gets, the smoother the surface. Mine is like a mirror. Make sure you sand it down on a perfectly flat surface.

[zac4mac]

Eugene, maybe I'm missing something here, but isn't the main idea of a heatsink surface area? I agree with sanding the heatsink on a piece of glass for flatness, but I think polishing would lower the heat transfer efficiency. Good call on the Arctic Silver, I used it on my 8500/G3-400 @ 454.
Before I put extra cooling on the G3, I found it running S@H with a proc. temp of 60° C, so I got a tube of Arctic Silver and 4 GPU cooling fans for the flat heatsink. It rarely goes over 40° C now.

Zack

[Eugene]

Polish the bottom. You want the die slug to contact as muc of the heatsink as possible...that's why I CNC'd my own copper shim to fit over the CPU. more contact between the CPU and the heatsink.

You want more surface area,but you don't want to create airpockets betwen the die and the bottom surface. I suppose you could sand blast the fins of your heatsink for more surface area...that's sounds a bit drastic...

[Nimisys]

yep sanding or lapping the core makes it flatter and helps in cooling.

metal - metal and metal-ARtic Sliver -Metal always does better than meta-air-metal. lapping the HS helps to reduce the micro air pockets in the mating. so does adding pressure, the more the better as it forces more and more of the metal to come in contact with each other, thereby improving the cooling.

Also when you OC the key is to keep it as cold as possible as it will help to provide higher rates and prolong chip life. Raising the core voltage .1 or .2 volts also can help you become stable at the higher speeds, but also means more heat to contend with.

Like i said the Key to OCing is keeping it cool... currently there is 4-5 ways of doing this.

1) lots o fans - high air flow keeps it right about room temp and works well with heat sinks.

2) Water cooling - quite viable with many options - mo later on it

3) Pelteir - a small ceramic plate, one side insanly cold another in insanly hot, will provide sub-zero temps for the core, but requires either submersion or water cooling to keep the hotside under control and keep from burning it up

4) refridgerant - basicly putting the cpu in a freezer within the case... expensive but affective.

5) submursion - place the whole motherboard and parts in to a a tray fill with mineral oil, cool the oil and your good to go. not very practicle but when used with 3&4 and the mineral oil subsituted for soemthing like floreint and Dry ice, with Liquid nitrogen in your water cooling circut, you can actually get the components soo cold they stop working correctly (happens around -50 to -75 C)

Water Cooling is about the most cost effective means today, the run virtually silent with the only noise coming from a small pump to circulate it. Mineral oil can be subsituted for water if the concepet of running water in a computer scares you. mineral oil is less conductive to electricity than air. only cavet with wtaer cooling is that you got to have some way to cool the waer down such as a radiator but those require fans or you could go with an open system resivors (a tank with the coolant in) or the evap setup such as swamp coolers or a cooling tower (aka bong cooler). the Bong towers basicly spray the water out a shower head, let it fall about 2 feet and recollect it at the bottom. this gets the water below ambeit temps which is a good thing, but requires refilling every 2days or so.

[zac4mac]

Eugene - makes sense, for the contact area.
I didn't do anything fancy with the G3 or G4 clock-ups. Just a 0.5x bus mult bump and tweaking the 8500's system bus to the limit. All that affects is duty cycle, and that doesn't raise the temp much. I haven't had the huevos to mess with core voltage.

Thanks to you and Nimisys for the info.

Z

[zac4mac]

Eugene - makes sense, for the contact area.
I didn't do anything fancy with the G3 or G4 clock-ups. Just a 0.5x bus mult bump and tweaking the 8500's system bus to the limit. All that affects is duty cycle, and that doesn't raise the temp much. I haven't had the huevos to mess with core voltage.

Thanks to you and Nimisys for the info.

Z

[Langdon]

I want to OC a Rev A 300MHz Yosemite.
I have never overclocked anything and this sounds like an easy model to begin with. I saw the site over at XLR8 and it seemed straightforward until I took off the jumper block. There is no numbering on the block like there is on the XLR8 diagram so I don't want to go moving jumpers around without knowing which is which.

Can someone who has done this before help me out with this. I want to go to 350MHz which is a small jump and should not require any changing to the heatsink or fan. If someone could photoshop this image or at least help me label it I would be a lot farther along than I am now and would be very grateful.




Also what is the best way to move the jumpers around without damaging them.