Hi Spike,
I have used dw for about two years now, and since one week Ultradev. I find it very easy to use, but...
You should know how to create databases, how to make a connection with the webserver, just to get started. You definitely need a webserver. Depending on what language you use (asp, jsp or cfm) you need a webserver that can handle that language. I use Apache here, with Tomcat for JSP (and don't ask me how to set this up in OSX yet, because this is on a PC).
And although you can do quite a lot without going into the code, for the more complex stuff, you will have to change the code manually. Then there are the sql-statements, but these are only necessary when you use quite complex tables, and complex queries.
Hope this helps a bit.