[jersey]

On Dec. 22 I left for the holidays and returned on the 28th with the flu. I was in bed until yesterday (the 15th) so I didn't need my car. It has sat outside, and hasn't been started for the past 25 days. Today I felt well enough to visit the girlfriend while she was in her studio, it's about 1 mile from my place. The car started on the first turn of the key, and I drove to her studio and parked in the garage. I was there for about 3 hours or so. Upon leaving the car again started fine, but as soon as I pulled out onto the street it began to give me issues. Heres what it does:

While sitting at a light it will stall.

While driving it will hesitate / register low rpm's to the point it almost stalls, but it will recover if i put the gas pedal to the floor.

Upon returning to my place and putting it in park it ran for about 30 seconds, then stalled.
After restating it, it ran for 30 seconds and stalled. It did this repeatedly.

Any Ideas? I left it with 1/4 tank of gas , so I think it may be moisture in the fuel system, but I'm not positive.

Oh... and the car is a 96 bmw 318.

Any ideas / suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

-j

[Link]

If your car won't run properly after 25 days of non-use, I'd be wondering... our car sits around for months without much use and tends to be fine when it is used

Sorry to hear aboout that, hopefully someone comes along with helpful advice

[Mastrap]

It could be condensation in the distributor. I would take off the distributor cap, wipe it clean, give it a burst of contact spray and try again.
If that doesn't help I'd check if the battery has got enough juice. As far as I know (and please keep in mind I am no mechanic) some cars take power from the battery at low revs rather than from the alternator. If you've got a charger, charge the battery up over night and see what that does.

If that doesn't help I don't know. My car is in the garage too, electrical issue in the gearbox. Hopefully I'll be getting it back on Monday. A warrantee repair, thankfully.

[Cody Dawg]

I know a lot about cars since that is the family business.

You need to have your battery checked. When was it last replaced? Life for an average battery is 2 years. If you need a new one go to Wal-mart and keep the receipt. They are notoriously friendly for replacing a battery (for free) as long as you have the original receipt - within the warranty period.

Next, your alternator sounds like it might have an issue.

Next, how much antifreeze is in your radiator?

Next, what kind of oil are you using for the winter months? That is important in cold climates. Get an oil change for $30. They can do a fluid level check at the same time. Oil has viscosity index improvers but your oil should be changed at 3000 miles all of the time. Do not move to a thicker oil - 70% of engine wear occurs when you start your car - use the manufacturer recommended oil in the synthetic (synthetic is best.)

Finally, try burning out as much current gasoline in the car as you can. Get a fuel cleaner and add it then add about 3 gallons and burn out the water in your tank.

If you do all of those things you'll probably be good to go.

Let us know what happens.

Good luck.

[stevesnj]

The injectors could of gotten a little gummed up...I would run fuel injector cleaner through t and also consider changing the fuel filter if it has not been changed in a while.

[vexborg]

If your car has a catalyst converter, it might be an idea to get it checked out.

[ASIMO]

Tooki, we demand a car forum.

[OldManMac]

If the car cranks healthily and starts fine, then it's not the battery. A bad battery keeps the car from cranking, and hence, starting at all. It's most likely moisture in the fuel, as you let the car sit with little fuel in it, and the condensation in the tank got into the fuel lines, after having driven just enough to warm the engine up. I had a similar problem many years ago, with a diesel in extrememly cold temps. The car drove for about two miles, because the fuel lines going to the engine were plugged into a heater, but, when those lines called for more fuel, the fuel in the tank was frozen. If I let the car sit for about half an hour, it would run again for a few minutes, and then stall. I had the car towed to where I bought my fuel, they put it in a warm garage, let it warm up and run for a while, and then added a gallon of gas (to thin out the diesel fuel, which was okay on the VW diesels), and then I drove it home, with no more problems. They had apparently received a load of diesel that wasn't properly winterized.

[jersey]

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
I know a lot about cars since that is the family business.

You need to have your battery checked. When was it last replaced? Life for an average battery is 2 years. If you need a new one go to Wal-mart and keep the receipt. They are notoriously friendly for replacing a battery (for free) as long as you have the original receipt - within the warranty period.

I was thinking this as well. the battery is about a year and 1/2 right now. Looks like it'll be going to Pep Boys in the morning to get tested.

But in the mean time, I think i'll go get some fresh gas at the corner station.

[OldManMac]

If you're only getting two years out of a battery, you're buying the wrong batteries.

[jersey]

Well, I thought I was going to go get gas, but it'll only run for about 10 seconds then stall.
It's about 20 degrees here right now, so I'm sure thats helping a bunch. Looks like I'll pick up a gas can while I'm at Pep Boys with the battery in the morning.

[zerostar]

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
Oil has viscosity index improvers but your oil should be changed at 3000 miles all of the time.

I don't agree with that as a blanket statement, I use Mobil 1 synthetic and only change my oil every 8,000 miles, one car we own has now 450,000 miles and never a problem. Nothing.

3,000 miles *can be* a waste of time and money depending on your driving conditions and the oil you use. this should be another thread though.

[bstone]

Originally posted by jersey:
I was thinking this as well. the battery is about a year and 1/2 right now. Looks like it'll be going to Pep Boys in the morning to get tested.

But in the mean time, I think i'll go get some fresh gas at the corner station.

DO NOT GO TO PEP BOYS!!!!!!!

Look at my signature for more information. They really ****ed up my car and caused tons of damage and several thousands of dollars in repairs. Bastards.

[d4nth3m4n]

did the weather change dramatically while it was parked?

how much has the car been driven since you started driving it again? are you able to take it for a long drive? because i'd recommend you do that. might be some kind of electronic sensor or something that is still acclimating to the weather change.

[jersey]

Originally posted by bstone:
DO NOT GO TO PEP BOYS!!!!!!!

Look at my signature for more information. They really ****ed up my car and caused tons of damage and several thousands of dollars in repairs. Bastards.

I have heard plenty of horror stories about them. I would never take my car there to have it worked on..... but they are good for a free battery test and / or charge.

[jersey]

Originally posted by d4nth3m4n:
did the weather change dramatically while it was parked?

how much has the car been driven since you started driving it again? are you able to take it for a long drive? because i'd recommend you do that. might be some kind of electronic sensor or something that is still acclimating to the weather change.

Argh jersey weather.... so it has been 4 degrees one day then 60 the next. I'm sure weather had played some role.

It has been driven a total of 2 miles since I started driving it again. I would take it for a longer drive, but every time I come to a stop it stalls. And well, the drivers here in jersey arent so patient while you re-start your car multiple times.

[greenamp]

Sounds like clogged injectors to me. Run a bottle of injector cleaner through and see if that solves the problem. Also could be that you need to change your air filter.

If these simple fixes dont solve the problem, the only real way to diagnose such an obscure problem is to have it hooked up to a diagnostic machine by a auto technician.

[Cody Dawg]

Whether synthetic or not the additives in oil still break down and the oil should still be changed every 3000 miles.

Put it this way: Some people use cheap toothpaste without tartar control and some use good toothpaste with tartar control. One is more expensive and does a better job.

BMWs now require synthetic oils as part of their warranty. Take a BMW from 1998 and newer and the requirement is synthetic. The manufacturer recommendations are based on what will get you through their warranty period. BUT, that does not mean that is best for your engine, see? What is best is getting your oil changed every 3000 miles, 5000 at the latest with synthetic. My car gets an oil change with synthetic every 3000 miles and it is under warranty and the dealership will pay for the oil change every 8000 miles. I do what is best for the longevity of the motor. We are Mobil 1 endorsed, by the way.

Good luck.

[Cody Dawg]

Here is an expert opinion from my spouse:

"BMWs are very sensitive to air. It will stall if it has a vacuum leak or air intake leak. But being that the car sat for one month with a quarter tank of gas he probably has condensation in the tank and fuel turns to varnish when it sits so his fuel injectors are probably gumming up. He needs to use a fuel injection cleaner and a fuel tank of gas. Use one that will remove excess water."

Good luck.

[cjrivera]

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
Whether synthetic or not the additives in oil still break down and the oil should still be changed every 3000 miles.

Put it this way: Some people use cheap toothpaste without tartar control and some use good toothpaste with tartar control. One is more expensive and does a better job.

BMWs now require synthetic oils as part of their warranty. Take a BMW from 1998 and newer and the requirement is synthetic. The manufacturer recommendations are based on what will get you through their warranty period. BUT, that does not mean that is best for your engine, see? What is best is getting your oil changed every 3000 miles, 5000 at the latest with synthetic. My car gets an oil change with synthetic every 3000 miles and it is under warranty and the dealership will pay for the oil change every 8000 miles. I do what is best for the longevity of the motor. We are Mobil 1 endorsed, by the way.

Good luck.

They recommend oil changes at 15,000 miles with my synthetic oil. (I still change the oil and filter at 7500, but the filter looks totally new)

[Cody Dawg]

cj: I'll say it again that what is recommended by the manufacturer is not always what is best.

The rule of thumb is that what a manufacturer recommends is usually the bare minimum. Also, is your manufacturer one of those who gives oil changes away "for free?"

Well, it is going to cost them more money to give you more frequent "free" services.

I would NEVER get my oil changed every 15,000 miles and I would never want to buy a car of a person who only had their oil changed every 15,000 miles.

Our business is the oil change business and we use Mobil 1 synthetic in all of our vehicles and that oil gets changed every 3000 miles. Knock on wood, but we rarely have problems in any of our vehicles other than a flat tire here and there. Nothing major. The motors on our cars are shiny and look like new - even in an older 1990 vehicle.

[villalobos]

Originally posted by KarlG:
If you're only getting two years out of a battery, you're buying the wrong batteries.

Word.