[jersey]

On Dec. 22 I left for the holidays and returned on the 28th with the flu. I was in bed until yesterday (the 15th) so I didn't need my car. It has sat outside, and hasn't been started for the past 25 days. Today I felt well enough to visit the girlfriend while she was in her studio, it's about 1 mile from my place. The car started on the first turn of the key, and I drove to her studio and parked in the garage. I was there for about 3 hours or so. Upon leaving the car again started fine, but as soon as I pulled out onto the street it began to give me issues. Heres what it does:

While sitting at a light it will stall.

While driving it will hesitate / register low rpm's to the point it almost stalls, but it will recover if i put the gas pedal to the floor.

Upon returning to my place and putting it in park it ran for about 30 seconds, then stalled.
After restating it, it ran for 30 seconds and stalled. It did this repeatedly.

Any Ideas? I left it with 1/4 tank of gas , so I think it may be moisture in the fuel system, but I'm not positive.

Oh... and the car is a 96 bmw 318.

Any ideas / suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

-j

[Link]

If your car won't run properly after 25 days of non-use, I'd be wondering... our car sits around for months without much use and tends to be fine when it is used

Sorry to hear aboout that, hopefully someone comes along with helpful advice

[Mastrap]

It could be condensation in the distributor. I would take off the distributor cap, wipe it clean, give it a burst of contact spray and try again.
If that doesn't help I'd check if the battery has got enough juice. As far as I know (and please keep in mind I am no mechanic) some cars take power from the battery at low revs rather than from the alternator. If you've got a charger, charge the battery up over night and see what that does.

If that doesn't help I don't know. My car is in the garage too, electrical issue in the gearbox. Hopefully I'll be getting it back on Monday. A warrantee repair, thankfully.

[Cody Dawg]

I know a lot about cars since that is the family business.

You need to have your battery checked. When was it last replaced? Life for an average battery is 2 years. If you need a new one go to Wal-mart and keep the receipt. They are notoriously friendly for replacing a battery (for free) as long as you have the original receipt - within the warranty period.

Next, your alternator sounds like it might have an issue.

Next, how much antifreeze is in your radiator?

Next, what kind of oil are you using for the winter months? That is important in cold climates. Get an oil change for $30. They can do a fluid level check at the same time. Oil has viscosity index improvers but your oil should be changed at 3000 miles all of the time. Do not move to a thicker oil - 70% of engine wear occurs when you start your car - use the manufacturer recommended oil in the synthetic (synthetic is best.)

Finally, try burning out as much current gasoline in the car as you can. Get a fuel cleaner and add it then add about 3 gallons and burn out the water in your tank.

If you do all of those things you'll probably be good to go.

Let us know what happens.

Good luck.

[stevesnj]

The injectors could of gotten a little gummed up...I would run fuel injector cleaner through t and also consider changing the fuel filter if it has not been changed in a while.

[vexborg]

If your car has a catalyst converter, it might be an idea to get it checked out.

[ASIMO]

Tooki, we demand a car forum.

[OldManMac]

If the car cranks healthily and starts fine, then it's not the battery. A bad battery keeps the car from cranking, and hence, starting at all. It's most likely moisture in the fuel, as you let the car sit with little fuel in it, and the condensation in the tank got into the fuel lines, after having driven just enough to warm the engine up. I had a similar problem many years ago, with a diesel in extrememly cold temps. The car drove for about two miles, because the fuel lines going to the engine were plugged into a heater, but, when those lines called for more fuel, the fuel in the tank was frozen. If I let the car sit for about half an hour, it would run again for a few minutes, and then stall. I had the car towed to where I bought my fuel, they put it in a warm garage, let it warm up and run for a while, and then added a gallon of gas (to thin out the diesel fuel, which was okay on the VW diesels), and then I drove it home, with no more problems. They had apparently received a load of diesel that wasn't properly winterized.

[jersey]

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
I know a lot about cars since that is the family business.

You need to have your battery checked. When was it last replaced? Life for an average battery is 2 years. If you need a new one go to Wal-mart and keep the receipt. They are notoriously friendly for replacing a battery (for free) as long as you have the original receipt - within the warranty period.

I was thinking this as well. the battery is about a year and 1/2 right now. Looks like it'll be going to Pep Boys in the morning to get tested.

But in the mean time, I think i'll go get some fresh gas at the corner station.

[OldManMac]

If you're only getting two years out of a battery, you're buying the wrong batteries.

[jersey]

Well, I thought I was going to go get gas, but it'll only run for about 10 seconds then stall.
It's about 20 degrees here right now, so I'm sure thats helping a bunch. Looks like I'll pick up a gas can while I'm at Pep Boys with the battery in the morning.

[zerostar]

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
Oil has viscosity index improvers but your oil should be changed at 3000 miles all of the time.

I don't agree with that as a blanket statement, I use Mobil 1 synthetic and only change my oil every 8,000 miles, one car we own has now 450,000 miles and never a problem. Nothing.

3,000 miles *can be* a waste of time and money depending on your driving conditions and the oil you use. this should be another thread though.

[bstone]

Originally posted by jersey:
I was thinking this as well. the battery is about a year and 1/2 right now. Looks like it'll be going to Pep Boys in the morning to get tested.

But in the mean time, I think i'll go get some fresh gas at the corner station.

DO NOT GO TO PEP BOYS!!!!!!!

Look at my signature for more information. They really ****ed up my car and caused tons of damage and several thousands of dollars in repairs. Bastards.

[d4nth3m4n]

did the weather change dramatically while it was parked?

how much has the car been driven since you started driving it again? are you able to take it for a long drive? because i'd recommend you do that. might be some kind of electronic sensor or something that is still acclimating to the weather change.

[jersey]

Originally posted by bstone:
DO NOT GO TO PEP BOYS!!!!!!!

Look at my signature for more information. They really ****ed up my car and caused tons of damage and several thousands of dollars in repairs. Bastards.

I have heard plenty of horror stories about them. I would never take my car there to have it worked on..... but they are good for a free battery test and / or charge.

[jersey]

Originally posted by d4nth3m4n:
did the weather change dramatically while it was parked?

how much has the car been driven since you started driving it again? are you able to take it for a long drive? because i'd recommend you do that. might be some kind of electronic sensor or something that is still acclimating to the weather change.

Argh jersey weather.... so it has been 4 degrees one day then 60 the next. I'm sure weather had played some role.

It has been driven a total of 2 miles since I started driving it again. I would take it for a longer drive, but every time I come to a stop it stalls. And well, the drivers here in jersey arent so patient while you re-start your car multiple times.

[greenamp]

Sounds like clogged injectors to me. Run a bottle of injector cleaner through and see if that solves the problem. Also could be that you need to change your air filter.

If these simple fixes dont solve the problem, the only real way to diagnose such an obscure problem is to have it hooked up to a diagnostic machine by a auto technician.

[Cody Dawg]

Whether synthetic or not the additives in oil still break down and the oil should still be changed every 3000 miles.

Put it this way: Some people use cheap toothpaste without tartar control and some use good toothpaste with tartar control. One is more expensive and does a better job.

BMWs now require synthetic oils as part of their warranty. Take a BMW from 1998 and newer and the requirement is synthetic. The manufacturer recommendations are based on what will get you through their warranty period. BUT, that does not mean that is best for your engine, see? What is best is getting your oil changed every 3000 miles, 5000 at the latest with synthetic. My car gets an oil change with synthetic every 3000 miles and it is under warranty and the dealership will pay for the oil change every 8000 miles. I do what is best for the longevity of the motor. We are Mobil 1 endorsed, by the way.

Good luck.

[Cody Dawg]

Here is an expert opinion from my spouse:

"BMWs are very sensitive to air. It will stall if it has a vacuum leak or air intake leak. But being that the car sat for one month with a quarter tank of gas he probably has condensation in the tank and fuel turns to varnish when it sits so his fuel injectors are probably gumming up. He needs to use a fuel injection cleaner and a fuel tank of gas. Use one that will remove excess water."

Good luck.

[cjrivera]

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
Whether synthetic or not the additives in oil still break down and the oil should still be changed every 3000 miles.

Put it this way: Some people use cheap toothpaste without tartar control and some use good toothpaste with tartar control. One is more expensive and does a better job.

BMWs now require synthetic oils as part of their warranty. Take a BMW from 1998 and newer and the requirement is synthetic. The manufacturer recommendations are based on what will get you through their warranty period. BUT, that does not mean that is best for your engine, see? What is best is getting your oil changed every 3000 miles, 5000 at the latest with synthetic. My car gets an oil change with synthetic every 3000 miles and it is under warranty and the dealership will pay for the oil change every 8000 miles. I do what is best for the longevity of the motor. We are Mobil 1 endorsed, by the way.

Good luck.

They recommend oil changes at 15,000 miles with my synthetic oil. (I still change the oil and filter at 7500, but the filter looks totally new)

[Cody Dawg]

cj: I'll say it again that what is recommended by the manufacturer is not always what is best.

The rule of thumb is that what a manufacturer recommends is usually the bare minimum. Also, is your manufacturer one of those who gives oil changes away "for free?"

Well, it is going to cost them more money to give you more frequent "free" services.

I would NEVER get my oil changed every 15,000 miles and I would never want to buy a car of a person who only had their oil changed every 15,000 miles.

Our business is the oil change business and we use Mobil 1 synthetic in all of our vehicles and that oil gets changed every 3000 miles. Knock on wood, but we rarely have problems in any of our vehicles other than a flat tire here and there. Nothing major. The motors on our cars are shiny and look like new - even in an older 1990 vehicle.

[villalobos]

Originally posted by KarlG:
If you're only getting two years out of a battery, you're buying the wrong batteries.

Word.

[IceEnclosure]

synthetic oil changes at 3000 miles is pretty expensive. Changing Royal Purple or Amsoil at 3000 miles in a street car is an expensive, and I'd say needless, but if you got the money, enjoy. Ice says this car stalling has absolutely nothing to do with the oil.

Cody, if you were using a petroleum based oil, how often would you change it? every 500 miles?? heh

oh, and jersey. hop on a BMW forum, there's some good ones out there and the replies would be more accurate. you'd be asking these questions, and BMW owners/tuners would be answering.

[Steve]

Originally posted by IceEnclosure:
synthetic oil changes at 3000 miles is pretty expensive. Changing Royal Purple or Amsoil at 3000 miles in a street car is an expensive, and I'd say needless, but if you got the money, enjoy. Ice says this car stalling has absolutely nothing to do with the oil.

Holla. If you got the money, feel free, but it's completely unnecessary to change synthetic oil every 3,000 miles. I trust my cars manufacturer over oil manufactureres any day.

[zerostar]

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
Whether synthetic or not the additives in oil still break down and the oil should still be changed every 3000 miles.

Sorry, this is completely wrong.

I have been involved in a study, specifically of Mobil 1, I have sent 70 oil samples in for testing at $20 a pop for the last 3 years.

The breakdown between 3,000 and 8,000 in the Mobil 1 is very minimal, and is lower than dino based oil at 3,000 miles.

The tests I did were using the same filter for 8,000 miles. When a new filter was applied at 5,000 the oil lasted 10,000 miles with the same viscosity, additive and build up of particles as the 3,000 dino oil.

Alternatively, engine wear actually decreases as oil ages. This has also been substantiated in testing conducted by Ford Motor Co. and ConocoPhillips, and reported in SAE Technical Paper 2003-01-3119. What this means is that compulsive oil changers are actually causing more engine wear than the people who let their engine's oil get some age on it.

Here is the study I was involved with: http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

You can see the tests go up to 18,000 miles between full oil changes..

You can see Viscosity breaks down only 1.3 points between 3,000 and 8,000 miles
Additionally it breaks down only 1.0 point between 8,000 and 10,000 miles

The reason I do 8,000 is because it most closely resembles 3,000 in din oil, plus more contaminates are found at 10,000 than 8,000
Plus I don't want to change the filter, If I did a filter change at 5,000 I would feel safe with a 10,000 change.

We are currently doing an Amsoil test and it looks to be marginally better than the Mobil test, at least at 10,000 miles...

And Finally CowdyDog, I understand your bottom line would be hurt by the majority of the public switching to 8,000 miles vs 3,000 not only would your oil change revenue be less than 1/2 what it is now, according to SAE the engine wear would actually be less with frequent 6,000 mile changes vs. 3,000 with a full synthetic.

[IceEnclosure]

Originally posted by zerostar:
WISDOM

BOOM! nice.

[zerostar]

Originally posted by IceEnclosure:
BOOM! nice.

I wasn't tring to be a jerk, but hearing this from someone who owns an oil change place pisses me off.

Of course they are going to say 3,000 miles, they would say 2,000 if they could.

The fact that I was involved in this specific study and had the data to back it up.

[cenutrio]

It sound to me like the gas pump could be an issue.

[zerostar]

Originally posted by cenutrio:
It sound to me like the gas pump could be an issue.

On topic, yes that is one thing I would test first. Or perhaps a clogged fuel filter?

[wiffmaster]

Have not read the whole thread, but if I were you, the first point of call is the distributor cap. Remove battery negative lead, unclip distributor cap, wipe out with paper towel, cover in WD40 and replace.

Also, check all your leads are still connected properly. How old are the leads? If they're old/cracking, replace with high quality ones - makes a world of difference.

Check your air flow meter and air filter and check this isn't obstructed, as this will cause the car to fuel incorrectly.

Unlikely to be clogged injectors after such a short period. Start the car, allow it to warm up till operating temperature, and give it a damm good revvving to get all the crud out the system, you won't damage it. Do not use injector cleaners (apart from Redex), as most of them are absolute crap.

If this fails, check your alternator, should read at least 14.4 with a multimeter connected. Check all the earths, and check the coil as well. Soak all of them in contact cleaner.

Unlikely, but it could also be an ECU fault, but not much chance of that. Does the car 'hunt' for revs (ie. rises then falls?)

On older cars (around 10 years), it does the world of good to give them more regular oil changes than reccommended (around 3000 miles is good). Newer cars can go much, much longer without changes, but I still change every 6000 miles anyway.

It is almost guaranteeded to be an ingnition system problem, and is likely to be a very simple cheap repair. I doubt it is mechanical though.

If your starter motor turns over OK, them it's not a battery problem, it is another part of the ingition. If you can start it, then the battery's fine - do not be tricked into getting a new one, you probably don't need it. Batteries should last at LEAST 5 years, as long as you buy a decent one.

Try all of these thing before taking to pepboys and co, they'll rip you off. All of the things above are incredibly simple to do (I've just turned 17, and do way more complex things). Also, do not pay for oil changes - ever. If you can't change your own oil, you shouldn't be driving. If you don't have enough time, that's a different issue.
I learned to do basic servicing myself, just get a workshop manual and go from there - easier than you may think. You'll also be able to save a lot of money and diagnose problems yourself.

[jersey]

So.........

I just got back from having the battery tested, and it was fine as suspected.

I put in a bottle of fuel system water remover, a bottle of fuel injector cleaner and 5 gallons of fresh gas.

The car started and ran trouble free for a 1/2 hour. I made sure I did a ton of stop and go, and that it got up to normal operating temp. All seems to be well. I'm sure the fresh gas helped a lot. Now I'll let it cool off and in a few hours go out and drive it again to see if it has any problems.

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

-j

[Cody Dawg]

No, you don't change regular oil every 500 miles. Every 3000 miles like synthetic.

Using a better oil means that it does a better job WHILE IT IS IN THE CAR.

Conventional oil is designed to last about 3000 miles before the additives start breaking down. The additives break down at about 3000 to 5000 miles whether or not the oil is conventional or synthetic.

Synthetic oil is a conventional oil - regular oil is used to make synthetic - only the most stable molecules (of conventional oil) are duplicated so that it is simply the very best oil that there is.

Think of it this way: Synthetic oil is BETTER oil than conventional. Synthetic does NOT mean that you should put it in and forget about it for 10,000 or 15,000 miles.

Yes, if you go that far without an oil change the synthetic will protect your motor better than conventional, but the additives still break down and dissipate at about 5000 miles. Those additives protect your engine.

So, yes, you can go longer and further with conventional oil if you want to without as much risk to your motor, but there are still microscopic metal pieces circulating in that oil (from your motor) and the additives (detergents) that isolate those metals are now gone so the oil has lost some effectiveness and the ability to protect your motor is lessened.

You still get all kinds of garbage (condensation, fuel, carbon deposits which make sludge) that collects in the oil. That "garbage" in the oil stays there whether or not it is synthetic or not. Do you want that corrupted oil circulating in your BMW motor? Or Benz motor? Because that garbage wears on your motor. Yes, synthetic has a higher burning point so it is better for your motor from that standpoint, but if the oil is sludgy because the additives are gone then you've got sludgy oil, whether synthetic or conventional, and that is NOT good for your motor life.

[OldManMac]

As this thread has already been derailed;

http://www.consumerreports.org/main/...=1105903333495

Myth: Engine oil should be changed every 3,000 miles.

Reality: Although oil companies and quick-lube shops like to promote this idea, it's usually not necessary. Go by the recommended oil-change schedule in your vehicle's owner's manual. Most vehicles driven under normal conditions can go 7,500 miles or more between oil changes. Some models now come with a monitoring system that alerts the driver when the oil needs changing. Depending on driving conditions, these can extend change intervals to 10,000 or 15,000 miles.

[Cody Dawg]

Okay, how about no one changes their oil?

I don't understand the mentality that people do not want to change their oil. Especially when their vehicle is worth thousands upon thousands of dollars, upwards of $30,000.

It is the cheapest way to make sure that your car is maintained properly.

Our company does not "just change oil." We make sure that fluid levels are correct, that fan belts are not worn, that the hoses and fittings are not broken or worn, that air in the tires is correct. And, like most oil change operations, we do it all for about $30.

Yes, you can "do it for less" or "do it yourself" but WILL you? Seriously?

To drive it in every once in a while or at 3000 miles and get your car checked out and the oil changed for $30 is great. You can spend that much on a decent meal at a restaurant in one night - per person.

[zerostar]

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
but the additives still break down and dissipate at about 5000 miles. Those additives protect your engine.
...but if the oil is sludgy because the additives are gone then you've got sludgy oil, whether synthetic or conventional, and that is NOT good for your motor life.

They do not break down at 5,000 miles, you didn't read the page I posted. The oil was analyzed EVERY 1,000 additional miles and the results provided on the page. If you need specifics on a certain element I will pull the reports.

I would love to pull them and will even scan them if you have a specific additive you are looking for.

There is NO considerable change between 5,000 and 10,000 according to Blackstone Labs The only thing that deteriorates is additional metals which can be taken care of with a filter change at 5K miles.

I would say follow what your manual says and adhere to their driving condition guidelines.
My manual says 10K with conventional oil and that is the driving conditions I live in.

I change at 8K and use Mobil 1 because of the personal oil tests I have ran, I have NO DOUBT that 10,000 would be a fine change interval.

[zerostar]

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
Our company does not "just change oil." We make sure that fluid levels are correct, that fan belts are not worn, that the hoses and fittings are not broken or worn, that air in the tires is correct. And, like most oil change operations, we do it all for about $30.

Yes, you can "do it for less" or "do it yourself" but WILL you? Seriously?

To drive it in every once in a while or at 3000 miles and get your car checked out and the oil changed for $30 is great. You can spend that much on a decent meal at a restaurant in one night - per person.

I do it all myself... every 8K.. It is not rocket science to maintain a vehicle.

But I am intrigued., Tell me can I get a mobil 1 Change for $30?

And will you follow my manufactures recommended change of 10K or push a 3,000 change?

p.s. I do go to Valvoline Instant Oil Change, but only for wiper blades.

[Cody Dawg]

We do need an automotive thread, don't we?



Everyone here should tell what they drive.

I have a Saab sedan, 2002, and a Chevrolet Suburban 2004 (which I LOVE). The Suburban replaced my previous car, a Nissan Altima 2001, after a tree fell on it and killed it during the hurricanes here where we live.

[OldManMac]

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
Okay, how about no one changes their oil?

I don't understand the mentality that people do not want to change their oil. Especially when their vehicle is worth thousands upon thousands of dollars, upwards of $30,000.

It is the cheapest way to make sure that your car is maintained properly.

Our company does not "just change oil." We make sure that fluid levels are correct, that fan belts are not worn, that the hoses and fittings are not broken or worn, that air in the tires is correct. And, like most oil change operations, we do it all for about $30.

Yes, you can "do it for less" or "do it yourself" but WILL you? Seriously?

To drive it in every once in a while or at 3000 miles and get your car checked out and the oil changed for $30 is great. You can spend that much on a decent meal at a restaurant in one night - per person.

No one is recommending not changing your oil, so please stop your emotional overreaction. A couple of years ago, Consumer Reports did exhaustive testing on the effects of motor oil on New York City cabs, which undergo some of the harshest driving conditions to be found. CR reached several conclusions; there is virtually no difference in brands of motor oils, as many of them are refined in the same plants (the differences being related to the effectiveness of their marketing campaigns, as opposed to the actual chemical compounds of their oils), and that changing oil more frequently than recommended accomplishes two things; emptying the car owner's wallet more than necessary, and making the car owner feel better about himself as to how much better he supposedly treats his car than others.

We already know that you drive $30,000+ cars, and $30 is nothing but pocket change. It's not much money to me either, but I don't see the need to spend it unnecessarily. In forty years, I've owned around 20 vehicles, most of them high mileage cars that I purchased new. I change the oil around 10,000 miles, and I've never had major engine problems with any car I've owned (two diesels I owned went 250,000 miles and 180,000 and were still running fine when I traded them). One thing I do now, as I don't drive as much currently, is never drive my car less than five miles, giving the engine time to warm up properly and getting the exhaust system warm enough to boil out the residual water in the pipes, which lengthens engine and exhaust life. I currently have a '97 Grand AM GT coupe, which has 120,000 miles on it, with the original exhaust. I also know a thing or two about cars and mechanics, as I once made a very good living fixing cars. That's why I knew that the original poster's problems in this thread had nothing to do with batteries and alternators, but was more a fuel delivery issue, and why I know that anyone who only gets two years out of a battery is either buying too small a battery for their car, a cheap battery, or has other electrical system problems that are precluding the battery from being used to it's fullest life span.

[Kilbey]

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
Okay, how about no one changes their oil?

So it's either 3,00 or never eh? How stupid of you to suggest this.

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
I don't understand the mentality that people do not want to change their oil. Especially when their vehicle is worth thousands upon thousands of dollars, upwards of $30,000.

It is the cheapest way to make sure that your car is maintained properly.

This kind of "advertising" for your industry make work well for the mouth breathers, but we tend to be a higher educated bunch at teh MacNN. The cheapest way to make sure you car engine lasts long is to warm your oil before you drive and to not idle your car too long. Oil changes are important, but not every 3,000 miles. Not every car is the same, but I will get into that later.

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
Our company does not "just change oil." We make sure that fluid levels are correct, that fan belts are not worn, that the hoses and fittings are not broken or worn, that air in the tires is correct. And, like most oil change operations, we do it all for about $30.

I bet you do it with a smile! Don't forget theWD-40 on the door hinges!

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
Yes, you can "do it for less" or "do it yourself" but WILL you? Seriously?

A LOT of people do. Again, nice little catch phrase for your industry.

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
To drive it in every once in a while or at 3000 miles and get your car checked out and the oil changed for $30 is great. You can spend that much on a decent meal at a restaurant in one night - per person.

But it is unnecessary. For most people 5,000 miles is the optimum oil change interval.

I used to work for GM at a research facility. We would test very complex experimental engine designs, and we would test simple engine dynamics such as simply trying out different spark plugs in the same engine. And of course we did oil product testing. On most of our experimental engines we did a oil change every 5,000 miles because under average use that is when the oil started to lose lubricity. But if you drive higher number of miles per day than average, then the oil did not break down as quickly and we would get about 30%-40% more life if the engine ran longer between start ups. If your engine was started more often or had less miles driven per start up than average we did not see much lubricity loss.

GM leans on the safe side on it's recommendations of oil changes in their manuals. A lot of people tend to ignore all advice on oil changes. I have heard plenty of stories from friends who worked at dealerships telling about a guy who brought his car in for warranty work at 30,000+ miles and still had the original oil in it. And not always was the failure was because of the oil breaking down.

Personally, I change my oil every 6,000- 7,000 miles. But I also am way above average in the number of miles I drive. My two way commute is 130 miles. I do the oil changes my self in the Summer because it's easier. And in the Winter I go to a local Chrysler dealership because I can get an oil change using Valvoline for $22. They also vacuum and fill all the other fluids. Plus I get free coffee and they have a great lounge I can watch TV or read magazines. My only compliant is that I'll really get into an article and they will have my car done before I am finished reading. Lastly, they are great guys and I golf every now and then with the owner of the dealership.

Originally posted by Jersey:
I just got back from having the battery tested, and it was fine as suspected.

I put in a bottle of fuel system water remover, a bottle of fuel injector cleaner and 5 gallons of fresh gas.

The car started and ran trouble free for a 1/2 hour. I made sure I did a ton of stop and go, and that it got up to normal operating temp. All seems to be well. I'm sure the fresh gas helped a lot. Now I'll let it cool off and in a few hours go out and drive it again to see if it has any problems.

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

Glad to hear the great news! I suspected either the fuel filter or fuel pump. Glad to hear it was simple and cheap.

[jersey]

alright took it out for the second 1/2 hour drive. It did so-so. It stalled twice at stops. But I guess thats to be expected since just one drive doesnt allow enough time for the water eliminator and fresh gas to work its way thru the system. So in a bit I'll, drive around more and get a fill up to see if that cures the problem.

-j

[stevesnj]

Originally posted by jersey:
alright took it out for the second 1/2 hour drive. It did so-so. It stalled twice at stops. But I guess thats to be expected since just one drive doesnt allow enough time for the water eliminator and fresh gas to work its way thru the system. So in a bit I'll, drive around more and get a fill up to see if that cures the problem.

-j

I would still put a bottle of injector cleaner in there...I put some in every 4-6 k miles but your case may need more than just water eliminator.

[jersey]

Originally posted by stevesnj:
I would still put a bottle of injector cleaner in there...I put some in every 4-6 k miles but your case may need more than just water eliminator.

I did put in injector cleaner along wih the water remover. now it's jut to do enough driving to work the stuff throughout the system.
-j

[zerostar]

Originally posted by jersey:
I did put in injector cleaner along wih the water remover. now it's jut to do enough driving to work the stuff throughout the system.
-j

I still say clogged fuel filter, or perhaps rust in the tank...

The fact that it ran fine for a while I tend to think fuel filter, replace that if the problem persists.

[Cody Dawg]

Oh, Kilbey, you're the real professional, aren't you?

Nothing like taking good intentions and just twisting them all around to make people feel like bad simply for trying to give the guy a break.

Yup, you should be proud of your extreme knowledge, breadth of experience, and your condescending attitude.

All I wanted to do was help the guy out and have a little light-hearted banter at a forum.

Thank you for making yet another person at the forums feel like zero.

Have a nice night.

[zerostar]

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
Thank you for making yet another person at the forums feel like zero.

I resent that!

Anyway, I will agree with him for once, he is correct and has the experience to back it up.

I asked you, point blank what "magical additives" were breaking down at 3,000 and you didn't reply. Either you don't know what you are talking about, or you are deliberately trying to deceive people.

[jersey]

so i drove the car back from where i was, and all was incident free. no stall, or hesitation. I allowed the car to idle in park for 5 or so minutes while my gf picked up our take out and the car was fine. I also filled the tank. all seems to be well, so i'll let it sit for the nite and drive it tomorrow.

[Steve]

Originally posted by jersey:
so i drove the car back from where i was, and all was incident free. no stall, or hesitation. I allowed the car to idle in park for 5 or so minutes while my gf picked up our take out and the car was fine. I also filled the tank. all seems to be well, so i'll let it sit for the nite and drive it tomorrow.

Sweet. Doesn't it always feel nice when you can fix a car issue by yourself and for cheap?

[Kilbey]

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
Oh, Kilbey, you're the real professional, aren't you?

Yup. I worked at an automotive research and engineering facility for a few years. I went to university to teach engineering and building trades. Your family owns a Qwiky Lube joint and you are trying to sell more oil changes that are unnecessary.

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
Nothing like taking good intentions and just twisting them all around to make people feel like bad simply for trying to give the guy a break.

A man may have a broken back but good intentions of moving him to a comfortable position are not going to help. Good intentions won't get you anywhere without the knowledge to back them up. You did not offer good advice. You tried to sell oil.

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
Yup, you should be proud of your extreme knowledge, breadth of experience, and your condescending attitude.

I am not a proud man. But I do despise sales to people who don't need it and bad info.

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
All I wanted to do was help the guy out and have a little light-hearted banter at a forum.

You did have a bit of good advice in your post. But you had a TON of bad advice in there as well.

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
Thank you for making yet another person at the forums feel like zero.

You are the first person to say that. I'm sorry you feel that way, but it sounds like your own insecurities that are causing it. And no, that was not an apology. It is not my intention to make someone feel like "zero." in the forums. I only elaborated in my post to qualify what I was sating.

Originally posted by Cody Dawg:
Have a nice night.

Will do. I wish you would also. Please don't take what is said on here too deeply to heart.

[Kilbey]

Originally posted by jersey:
so i drove the car back from where i was, and all was incident free. no stall, or hesitation. I allowed the car to idle in park for 5 or so minutes while my gf picked up our take out and the car was fine. I also filled the tank. all seems to be well, so i'll let it sit for the nite and drive it tomorrow.

Glad to hear the good news.



Let this be a lesson to you. If you car is going to sit for any period of time in cold weather make sure the tank is filled up as full as possible. This prevents H2O condensation in the tank as the car warms up during the day and cools down at night.

[Cody Dawg]

Deleted post.

No use in posting here.

Good night.