[Athens]

Ok a little while ago I posted a poll asking if ppl thought it was worth putting money towards this car I got for free. Well here is the tale of the car thus far including costs.

Almost 2 years ago now I was given a 1987 Honda Prelude 2.0SI 5 Speed EFI car. Now at the time I didnt have a licence so the car just stayed parked for a year. In that time the window got smashed out and both locks on both doors got wreaked. The body itself is in great shape for a car of this age and model but the underneth was rusted bad. So anyways because it was parked for so long when I got it, and parked for a while before I got it the battery was pretty much shot so that was the first expense.

A new battery was 59.00. The next expense was the exhaust system which was rusted away. Labor and parts was another 450.00 to replace the entire thing except the cat and muffler. Basically this was needed since I haded smelling exhaust in the car and because it would never pass aircare in that condition. It didn't pass aircare after that either so I replaced the sparkplugs and cables for another 50.00, and that did the trick, not only did it pass it blew it away. On every test it came below the average for that year and model car and on some of the tests it came in below 50% of the average. The last expense that wasnt related to vandals was the gas filler pipe.

I never knew how bad the old one was until I had the work done, I thought I was getting 60% of the gas into the tank when I got gas but looking at how rusted out the old pipe was and how many holes it had, im guessing i was getting much less so that was 100.00 from the junk yard and 50.00 to get it installed. So total cost of fixing this car up so far was been 709.00. Now the guy that owned it before me already fixed the clutch and timing belt so I don't have to worry about those and I got the new locks and window from the junk yard for 130.00, I have yet to put the new locks on but I fixed the window so including vandals the car has cost me in the range of 839.00.

This isnt bad at all because used these cars still go between 1000.00 to 2000.00 and any used car will usally need some work done on it anyways so im still ahead. The power windows, mirrors, sunroof, heater all work and as I said before the engine works great. I got the car up to 120 in second gear the other day at 6000RPM and until I get the suspension checked im not going to push her past 130 right now. But I imagine I could get her all the way up to the redline of 220 with out hassal if I wanted to, I wont. So overall I think I made the right choice because its a zippy little car, looks good, works good and only needs a little more work to make it perfect. For one because of some bad roads and hard bumps I think I blew a strut which is causing a lot of squeeking in the front now, going to get that fixed. And my speed gage is acting up. After hitting a bump my speed drops to 0 then when I hit another bump its back up to where it should be. Something minor I should be able to fix myself.

So what do others think, did I make the right choice and what stories do others have about there cars.

My car has 244000km on it and I average 200km a day, so im going to prob put on 60k a year on it the rate im going.

[Randman]

Paragraphs dude, paragraphs.

Owning any car is going to incur costs though it sounds as if you drive it pretty hard. Guess it depends on your salary, or lack thereof.

[Athens]

Originally Posted by Randman

Paragraphs dude, paragraphs.

Owning any car is going to incur costs though it sounds as if you drive it pretty hard. Guess it depends on your salary, or lack thereof.

Ya I drive it pretty hard. The engine has power, I like to use the power. I accelerate fast, slow down with the engine, and on hills i usally use gear down to slow down to save the breaks. The strut blowing on me was from a pot hole in Surrey im assuming, man I felt that hurt.

[sideus]

Originally Posted by Athens

I got the car up to 120 in second gear the other day at 6000RPM and until I get the suspension checked im not going to push her past 130 right now.

Kilometers per hour?

[Athens]

Originally Posted by sideus

Kilometers per hour?

Ya lol

[buffalolee]

At least the car was free. All cars incur some sort of expense.

[ghporter]

First off, you got a good car to start with. Honda has a history of staying with what works, and the late '80s models were mature and stable. The Prelude, in particular, was solid, reliable, and a good performer. I think you've managed to wind up with a great car for a very reasonable price.

If I could get a '87 Prelude in good working order for around $1000US, I would do it in a heartbeat.

[Athens]

Originally Posted by ghporter

First off, you got a good car to start with. Honda has a history of staying with what works, and the late '80s models were mature and stable. The Prelude, in particular, was solid, reliable, and a good performer. I think you've managed to wind up with a great car for a very reasonable price.

If I could get a '87 Prelude in good working order for around $1000US, I would do it in a heartbeat.

Hehe and this was the top of the line of the year only extra options missing where the AC and Cruise Control. And all the prices I mentioned where in Canadian Dollars too. Mind you the underneith is rusted bad, couple wholes to patch up, and the suspension will prob need some work, otherwise I dont see any reason why she wont make it to 350 000km with out any major work, and I know more then enough ppl that got there VW and hondas past 400 000km.

[nickw311]

I have owned many Hondas, one being a Prelude... Great cars, yours should keep tickin for a while.

[Athens]

arrr I think I did a decent amount of damage to my CV joints. The CV Boot was torn off a while ago, something I was meaning to fix. Now the dam thing squeeks just turning the wheels let alone every little bump I hit, accelerating and breaking.

Wonder how much this is going to cost me.

[phantomdragonz]

Originally Posted by Athens

arrr I think I did a decent amount of damage to my CV joints. The CV Boot was torn off a while ago, something I was meaning to fix. Now the dam thing squeeks just turning the wheels let alone every little bump I hit, accelerating and breaking.

Wonder how much this is going to cost me.

CV shafts are easy to replace if your somewhat mechanically inclined. I have done both of them on a 89 Honda Civic, it literally took my and my friend 30 mins to do a side (with the tires off and the car on jack stands).

if you have some tools and stuff it's easy, PM me if you have any questions.

EDIT: I forgot to mention, the shafts were $60 each with a $80 core charge (which you get back if you return our old shaft, and i forgot to mention that you have to change the trans fluid in the process, the only real crappy part about the swap.

Zach

[Athens]

being this thread is orginally about my car shouldnt be much of a problem to explain it in the open, who knows it could be useful info for others.

I dont think I have enough time in the week to repack barings and stuff, so im looking at getting the unit complete and installing it. Depending on how hard it is on your discription im either going to get my mechanic to do it or try it myself.

[phantomdragonz]

you shouldent have to re-pack bearings, but i have only worked on my friends 1989 civic, so your car may be different.

I will give a quick run down though... The best thing would be to buy a "Haynes" or "Chiltons" manuel on your car and that will give you all the torque settings and the individual steps to your car.

• remove wheels
• Drain trans fluid
• use breaker bar to remove hub nut (would be helful to have friend in the car holding the brakes so the hub will not rotate on you.
• remove brake caliper
• remove steering knuckle bolts (this is the only tricky part, we needed a "pitman arm" puller, you should be able to rent these tools from NAPA or other car parts store.
• pull out old CV shaft
• push in Install new one
• replace steering knuckle bolts
• install hub nut "gutentight" or use a recommended torque wrench
• re-fill tranny with fluid
• install tires
• GO!

after seeing how easy it is to do CV shafts I would not worry about doing them on my own car, but I have worked on cars before, namely my Jeep Wrangler (Engine swap, lift kit, Air compressor, transfer case modifications) so i am kinda biased here...

if you have friends with the knowhow, borrow their tools and do it yourself, call them if you get stuck.

Zach

[Athens]

Originally Posted by phantomdragonz

you shouldent have to re-pack bearings, but i have only worked on my friends civic, so your car may be different.

I will give a quick run down though... The best thing would be to buy a "Haynes" or "Chiltons" manuel on your car and that will give you all the torque settings and the individual steps to your car.

• remove wheels
• Drain trans fluid
• use breaker bar to remove hub nut (would be helful to have friend in the car holding the brakes so the hub will not rotate on you.
• remove brake caliper
• remove steering knuckle bolts (this is the only tricky part, we needed a "pitman arm" puller, you should be able to rent these tools from NAPA or other car parts store.
• pull out old CV shaft
• push in Install new one
• replace steering knuckle bolts
• install hub nut "gutentight" or use a recommended torque wrench
• re-fill tranny with fluid
• install tires
• GO!

after seeing how easy it is to do CV shafts I would not worry about doing them on my own car, but I have worked on cars before, namely my Jeep Wrangler (Engine swap, lift kit, Air compressor, transfer case modifications) so i am kinda biased here...

if you have friends with the knowhow, borrow their tools and do it yourself, call them if you get stuck.

Zach

I got the manual

[phantomdragonz]

Originally Posted by Athens

I got the manual

well read it and look at what you are getting yourself into and see if you have the tools and the skill and tackle the job. the hardest part is using the pitman arm puller to push the bolt out of the ball joint (I think thats what it is)

make sure you have the tools, NAPA will let you rent the pitman arm puller, the one I had would not work because the fingers on top of the puller were too thick to go over the tabs on the steering part (cant remember the name) but the NAPA one worked.

there is minimal skill involved here, remember RIGHTY TIGHTY, LEFTY LOOSY!!!

Zach

[Athens]

Originally Posted by phantomdragonz

well read it and look at what you are getting yourself into and see if you have the tools and the skill and tackle the job. the hardest part is using the pitman arm puller to push the bolt out of the ball joint (I think thats what it is)

make sure you have the tools, NAPA will let you rent the pitman arm puller, the one I had would not work because the fingers on top of the puller were too thick to go over the tabs on the steering part (cant remember the name) but the NAPA one worked.

there is minimal skill involved here, remember RIGHTY TIGHTY, LEFTY LOOSY!!!

Zach

my problem is more time right now, I work graveyard so im usally tired in the day. Besides i remmeber reading about it being much harder in the book. The repacking of the barings, pulling it all apart, the book said its a good 6 hours job and thats for some one who has done it before.

[phantomdragonz]

well i am just going off what my friends Civic was, your prelude might be a hell of a lot harder.

dont get yourself into something that you you will not be able to remedy or finish in a sane manner...

Zach

[phantomdragonz]

I just realized that you are looking at the cv BOOT replacement, yes that is a bitch of a job and I would hate to do it, but if you have neglected to do it for this long it is bound to have contaminated the joint and messed it up, which means you need to replace the whole shaft, CV joint and all... it should be under $80 USD a shaft, my friends civic was $60 +$80 core...

Zach <-- was about to go to sleep till he realized this

[Athens]

yup and its not a whole in the boot, the boot is completly detached, and 130-150 every day on the freeway, 30km each way, and the other 160km of driving a day I did for the last 2 weeks, all the greese has got to have flown out of it as well, so ya the entire thing has got to be replaced now which is my best guess.

[phantomdragonz]

Originally Posted by Athens

yup and its not a whole in the boot, the boot is completly detached, and 130-150 every day on the freeway, 30km each way, and the other 160km of driving a day I did for the last 2 weeks, all the greese has got to have flown out of it as well, so ya the entire thing has got to be replaced now which is my best guess.

not only is it easier to do (less messy)but it's cheaper if you do it yourself...

let me know what you end up doing...

Zach

[Athens]

Originally Posted by phantomdragonz

not only is it easier to do (less messy)but it's cheaper if you do it yourself...

let me know what you end up doing...

Zach

LOL might have to do my clutch now, today because of a accedent I was stuck going up a 2km long hill at 5 to 10kp/h with a lot of stop and goes. I ended up riding my clutch most of the way and could smell it at the top and for a good half hour had little power transfering from the engine to the gears. Once it cooled down it seem to be normal again well almost, I think I have a little less power then I did before but it could just be in my head. Arrrr I hate standards in times like that or in gridlock.

[phantomdragonz]

Originally Posted by Athens

LOL might have to do my clutch now.

I plan on doing the clutch in my car, but I am not looking foreword to it. it is a small cramped place, and I dont have access to a lift, I will have to use jack stands... ugh...

try and move as slow as you can in first gear, get to know how much power you need to get there as quick as possible (but not speed quick, just so you are not slipping the clutch)

Standard trannys are a blast, I HATE driving automatics, unless it's a road trip...

Zach

[Athens]

Originally Posted by phantomdragonz

I plan on doing the clutch in my car, but I am not looking foreword to it. it is a small cramped place, and I dont have access to a lift, I will have to use jack stands... ugh...

try and move as slow as you can in first gear, get to know how much power you need to get there as quick as possible (but not speed quick, just so you are not slipping the clutch)

Standard trannys are a blast, I HATE driving automatics, unless it's a road trip...

Zach

my first gear = power. The speeds we where going I didnt have much choice, because of how steep the hill was getting the car moving with out hitting the car in front or rolling back required some clutch burning. Mind you im still very new to standard, about 2000km of driving one so far.

[CMYKid]

Originally Posted by Athens

I accelerate fast, slow down with the engine, and on hills i usally use gear down to slow down to save the breaks.

Good thing you're still new at drivin a 5-speed, there's still time to break bad habits. "Saving the [brakes] is kinda pointless. I can do my brakes in 30 minutes total, and two sets of pads cost under $40 US. Replacing your transmission, clutch, etc cost a LOT more, not to mention take a lot longer. If your clutch really is on it's way out you'll only make it happen sooner.

[milhous]

hmm, can we get a visual of the prelude? that would add a nice touch to the thread!

[Athens]

Originally Posted by CMYKid

Good thing you're still new at drivin a 5-speed, there's still time to break bad habits. "Saving the [brakes] is kinda pointless. I can do my brakes in 30 minutes total, and two sets of pads cost under $40 US. Replacing your transmission, clutch, etc cost a LOT more, not to mention take a lot longer. If your clutch really is on it's way out you'll only make it happen sooner.

Clutch seems to be fine, right after when it was still hot it wasnt doing so well.

gearing down on hills to maintain speed or to slow down wont break anything.

[Athens]

Originally Posted by milhous

hmm, can we get a visual of the prelude? that would add a nice touch to the thread!

http://brian.is.a.rootboy.net click on My Prelude, I need to update the pictures with better ones now I have a better camera for that.

[CMYKid]

Originally Posted by Athens

Clutch seems to be fine, right after when it was still hot it wasnt doing so well.

Ummmm, and why do ya think it GOT hot in the first place? Slipping it is only part of the problem, and thats a definite sign that a new clutch is in y our future.

Mind you im still very new to standard.....Gearing down on hills to maintain speed or to slow down wont break anything.

Yeah, you've certainly accumulated mountains of experience on which to base your opinion.

While it won't immediately 'break' anything it's without question speeding the deterioration of expensive and difficult to replace components. Wear happens either way, you're far better off applying it to things that are designed to wear out and be replaced cheaply. You're just about always better off using brakes, the only exception being on long descents towing a load, when prolonged braking heats the fluid to the point where it's less dense and more compressible, resulting in brake fade.

[phantomdragonz]

Originally Posted by CMYKid

You're just about always better off using brakes, the only exception being on long descents towing a load, when prolonged braking heats the fluid to the point where it's less dense and more compressible, resulting in brake fade.

That is why you gear down, you simply put the car in a lower gear and let the clutch out all the way... your engine NOT YOUR CLUTCH is slowing you down.

now if you really want to get good at that, you bump the gas to get the engine turning at the same rate that the transmission will want it to turn when you let the clutch out. This is usually called double clutching, but it's not quite that.


They key to a long life on a clutch is to let it slip as little as possible, double clutching will help this greatly, but the rest it just driving style.


Zach

[ghporter]

"Change out the shafts, Luke!" It's MUCH easier, since you have to basically pull the shafts to be able to change out the boots anyway.

I have-with a friend-changed out boots or shafts on 6 different Civics, including manual and automatic transmission models. We were a little slow on the first one, but we got the whole boot thing done in about an hour on the last one we did.

The ONLY real problem we had was removing the hub nut. It took a LOT of effort and still wouldn't budge, so we got smart: we put a floor jack under the wrench! The jack does not get sore or pulled muscles! Works like a charm!

[Athens]

Originally Posted by CMYKid

Ummmm, and why do ya think it GOT hot in the first place? Slipping it is only part of the problem, and thats a definite sign that a new clutch is in y our future.


Yeah, you've certainly accumulated mountains of experience on which to base your opinion.

While it won't immediately 'break' anything it's without question speeding the deterioration of expensive and difficult to replace components. Wear happens either way, you're far better off applying it to things that are designed to wear out and be replaced cheaply. You're just about always better off using brakes, the only exception being on long descents towing a load, when prolonged braking heats the fluid to the point where it's less dense and more compressible, resulting in brake fade.

The clutch wasent slipping, i was stuck in stop and go, 5km a hour drive up a step hill, I basically burnt the hell out of it in the 20 minutes it took to clim the hill. Dosent slip otherwsie. my opinion comes from every one I know who drives a standard and those that tought me how to drive it.

[phantomdragonz]

Originally Posted by Athens

The clutch wasent slipping, .

well technically it was, and I would assume that if it starts to slip after getting warm then it is on it's way out... but I would also not doubt if you got like two more years out of it...

Zach

[Athens]

the clutch is 2 years old and has about 10000km on it. The reason it was burning was because I couldnt fully let the clutch out on the step incline I was on, adn the speed I was going I was pretty much screwed. As I said before once it cooled down it seemed. Either way I love my car but man I didnt realize how small 2nd Gen preludes where until the car was parked beside other cars. Its a bloody small car.

[Athens]

I think I damaged my fuel pump, dam thing is making a lot of noise in the back near the tank. Only started after I drove it on E a couple times. Argh....

[Kilbey]

Originally Posted by Athens

I think I damaged my fuel pump, dam thing is making a lot of noise in the back near the tank. Only started after I drove it on E a couple times. Argh....

You truly are quite clueless about car as this thread clearly display.

[phantomdragonz]

Originally Posted by Athens

I think I damaged my fuel pump, dam thing is making a lot of noise in the back near the tank. Only started after I drove it on E a couple times. Argh....

probably sucked up some funk on the bottom of your tank... in tank fuel pumps are usually a BITCH to replace, unless there is an access door in your trunk, then it can be quite easy albeit expensive...

Zach

[Athens]

Originally Posted by Kilbey

You truly are quite clueless about car as this thread clearly display.

ok wiseguy if its not the fuel pump what else could it be making the noise near the gas tank in the back, heres a hint, the pitch and tone changes as I rev the engine when its still. There is nothing else back there that would make that kind of noise like that. So what else do you think it could be?

[Kilbey]

Originally Posted by Athens

ok wiseguy if its not the fuel pump what else could it be making the noise near the gas tank in the back, heres a hint, the pitch and tone changes as I rev the engine when its still. There is nothing else back there that would make that kind of noise like that. So what else do you think it could be?

Is the car fuel injected?

Do you understand how fuel injection works and the delivery to the fuel rail to the injectors?

Have you replaced the fuel filter?

A fuel pump will usually only go bad, under normal use (and running low on fuel is normal use), if the pump is allowed to run dry. If your fuel pump went bad simply because you ran low then that is quite a testament to the lack of durability to Honda's fuel pumps.

[Athens]

ok look if it was the fuel injectors or the fuel filter it wouldnt be making noise where the fuel pump is, second the cars filler pipe was rusted about as bad as the Titanic, there has got to be a load of crap in the tank to jamp up into the pump, something that prob would have only happened when I was running with it low on fuel. Currently the flow of fuel for the most part is normal, some times after a start it sputters a bit. There is no doubt in my mind its the fuel pump which is now in serious need of cleaning before it actually does get to the point where it will fail. And ya 18 year old fuel pump it is a good testament to Honda, and yes its fuel injected. Its a 12 Value 4 Cylinder DOHC Engine, 1550CC / 2.0L

[Zimphire]

I would have sold the car to a rice-boy wanna be, and put a down payment on a newer car.

[phantomdragonz]

you might be able to take the fuel pump out and clean it up.... I would try and clean the tank at the same time... But right now I would not know how to do that...

but with all these issues piling up with this car, you might want to look at something in better quality, or learn how to fix cars.

Zach

[Athens]

Originally Posted by phantomdragonz

you might be able to take the fuel pump out and clean it up.... I would try and clean the tank at the same time... But right now I would not know how to do that...

but with all these issues piling up with this car, you might want to look at something in better quality, or learn how to fix cars.

Zach

im not going to replace the car over a jamed up fuel pump and dirty tank. Learning to fix cars is useless because its time/tools issues not knowledge that keeps me from working on it.

[Randman]

If you're not willing to learn to fix cars nor willing to buy a more reliable one, then you better have a good pair of walking shoes.

[ghporter]

Getting a fuel tank cleaned is often an inexpensive job if you take the car to an independent shop. While they're at it they may also check out the pump for you-a lot of shops will do this free for the good will it generates.

But I agree with Randman-a reliable car with a good warranty or a fairly simple set of tools and a weekend now and then are one choice. Good shoes and public transportation are the other. There really isn't a middle ground here.

[Randman]

Athens said there's a mechanic shop at the school? Why not see if some students there will help out for a cheaper price. Might learn a few tricks as well at the same time as helping a fellow student out.

[Athens]

Originally Posted by Randman

If you're not willing to learn to fix cars nor willing to buy a more reliable one, then you better have a good pair of walking shoes.

there is no issue on learning how to fix it, please read so you dont look so stupid. I DONT HAVE THE TIME to work on the car nor all the tools I would need. There for I take it to a shop. And the car has been 100% reliable.

[Athens]

Originally Posted by Randman

Athens said there's a mechanic shop at the school? Why not see if some students there will help out for a cheaper price. Might learn a few tricks as well at the same time as helping a fellow student out.

learn a few tricks, LOL I spend 3 blocks a day in grade 11 and 12 in auto, and they are fully booked for the rest of the year anyways.

[Randman]

Originally Posted by Athens

there is no issue on learning how to fix it, please read so you dont look so stupid. I DONT HAVE THE TIME to work on the car nor all the tools I would need. There for I take it to a shop. And the car has been 100% reliable.

Learn to spell properly before insulting the intelligence of others.

[Athens]

The shop that I usally take my car too was to busy to work on my car when I needed it done so I ended up doing a oil change, fuel filter change, Wiper blades on my own with a friend. Overall 70.00 which includes the tools has my car humming agian. Fuel Pump isnt making that massive noise any more and the performance is backup so in the end it was just a clogged fuel filter. I love my car!!!

[Kilbey]

Originally Posted by Athens

The shop that I usally take my car too was to busy to work on my car when I needed it done so I ended up doing a oil change, fuel filter change, Wiper blades on my own with a friend. Overall 70.00 which includes the tools has my car humming agian. Fuel Pump isnt making that massive noise any more and the performance is backup so in the end it was just a clogged fuel filter. I love my car!!!

Huh...

From previously in this thread:

Originally Posted by Kilbey

Is the car fuel injected?

Do you understand how fuel injection works and the delivery to the fuel rail to the injectors?

Have you replaced the fuel filter?

A fuel pump will usually only go bad, under normal use (and running low on fuel is normal use), if the pump is allowed to run dry. If your fuel pump went bad simply because you ran low then that is quite a testament to the lack of durability to Honda's fuel pumps.