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macgeek2005 · Dec 31, 2006, 03:05 PM

I got most of the information I need over at the sword forum international, but I have a feeling that i'm getting on their nerves with my endless questions.

So if someone experienced in cleaning and oiling katana's could answer my final question, that would be great.

Very plainly put, the question is: Does wiping the blade firmly with a paper towel remove all the oil? Or does it leave enough on the blade to prevent rust?

For instance, I recently oiled the blade (4 drops spread evenly on each side, spread out and wiped with a paper towel), and just now I firmly wiped the blade again with a paper towel, and there were faint marks of oil on the paper towel afterwards. Does this mean I took all the oil off? Or does that leave enough?

Is the powder the only thing that completely removes oil? I'd like to know that I can wipe my sword meticulously with a cloth or paper towel all I want and it won't remove all the oil.

Thanks.

CharlesS · Dec 31, 2006, 03:59 PM

Originally Posted by macgeek2005

I got most of the information I need over at the sword forum international, but I have a feeling that i'm getting on their nerves with my endless questions.

They're not the only ones.

macgeek2005 · Dec 31, 2006, 04:08 PM

Originally Posted by CharlesS

They're not the only ones.

I LOVE your signature, and they were the only ones I could find.

Peter · Dec 31, 2006, 04:15 PM

deja-vu

CharlesS · Dec 31, 2006, 04:16 PM

I meant that they're not the only ones who are tired of the sword drama.

Nebagakid · Dec 31, 2006, 04:18 PM

I would suggest boiling it in your opponent's blood, and then wiping it on the rags that were once their clothes.

besson3c · Dec 31, 2006, 04:18 PM

The first you must absolutely know about katanas is that more than one katana is "katanas", not "katana's"

You will never be a master katana owner without this knowledge.

I recommend a little WD-40, and a sharpening stone.

besson3c · Dec 31, 2006, 04:20 PM

Originally Posted by CharlesS

I meant that they're not the only ones who are tired of the sword drama.

I guess now would not be a good time for me to create my "swordfish appreciation" thread that I've been planning on.

Heheh... get it?

exca1ibur · Dec 31, 2006, 06:34 PM

Originally Posted by besson3c

The first you must absolutely know about katanas is that more than one katana is "katanas", not "katana's"

You will never be a master katana owner without this knowledge.

I recommend a little WD-40, and a sharpening stone.

If you want to ruin the blade WD-40 is the best way. Also, you dont need a sharpening stone for cleaning, and that shouldn't be an option unless you REALLY know what you are doing there, and want to sharpen the blade.

Choji Oil, rice paper and a powder ball. Things you should always have. It's ideal to clean it every week to week and a half depending on the moisture where you store it.

The smartest thing to do is buy a sword cleaning kit.
Deluxe Sword Maintenance Kit

imitchellg5 · Dec 31, 2006, 06:48 PM

I'm glad you didn't ask how to clean blood off

exca1ibur · Dec 31, 2006, 07:00 PM

Originally Posted by imitchellg5

I'm glad you didn't ask how to clean blood off

Good one!

macgeek2005 · Dec 31, 2006, 07:02 PM

Originally Posted by exca1ibur

If you want to ruin the blade WD-40 is the best way. Also, you dont need a sharpening stone for cleaning, and that shouldn't be an option unless you REALLY know what you are doing there, and want to sharpen the blade.

Choji Oil, rice paper and a powder ball. Things you should always have. It's ideal to clean it every week to week and a half depending on the moisture where you store it.

The smartest thing to do is buy a sword cleaning kit.
Deluxe Sword Maintenance Kit

I know all of that. And I have a cleaning kit. I don't have rice paper though.

Why is it that no matter where I go, and no matter what I say, people seem to not have an answer to my very very very VERY basic question.

All I want to know is whether or not paper towels can completely remove all oil on their own. If they can't, then does firmly rubbing the blade with them leave the correct amount of oil on the blade? And what can I use other than rice paper to remove all oil?

Right now, from what I can see, it seems that taking a paper towel from bottom to top of the blade doesn't remove all the oil, so this is a good thing, cause I can do that as much as I want and leave a very thin layer of oil. But then it leaves me with the problem of how to remove all the oil before re-oiling it again.

Thank you...

exca1ibur · Dec 31, 2006, 07:44 PM

Try to help some people and all you get is a bunch of...

Paper towels are too rough and a good way to scratch the blade. Which is why you are recommended rice paper, or if you are cheap. tissue paper. As long as there are no oils in it.

Since the help isn't appreciated, good luck and don't get hurt or killed there, since your experience level isn't yet there.

macgeek2005 · Dec 31, 2006, 08:18 PM

Originally Posted by exca1ibur

Try to help some people and all you get is a bunch of...

Paper towels are too rough and a good way to scratch the blade. Which is why you are recommended rice paper, or if you are cheap. tissue paper. As long as there are no oils in it.

Since the help isn't appreciated, good luck and don't get hurt or killed there, since your experience level isn't yet there.

I'm sorry.

Thank you for all the help guys.

You seem to know the stuff that I need help with exca1ibur. Could you please tell me whether or not tissue paper "removes" all existing oils? Also, is it good for spreading new oil on the blade?

Thank you.

euchomai · Dec 31, 2006, 08:53 PM

Originally Posted by macgeek2005

I'm sorry.

Thank you for all the help guys.

You seem to know the stuff that I need help with exca1ibur. Could you please tell me whether or not tissue paper "removes" all existing oils? Also, is it good for spreading new oil on the blade?

Thank you.

Listen bro, the oil will still be on the blade it is okay. The extra oil will not hurt the blade it will only attract more dust and lint. Don't be so anal about it, you are being overly cautious with the blade here.

Honestly, what are you using it for? If it is for looks the cleaning will last quite a long time. If it is for killing, then you'll have to clean it after every battle.

moonmonkey · Dec 31, 2006, 09:06 PM

Do you parents know that you have a sword in the house?

imitchellg5 · Dec 31, 2006, 09:22 PM

Hey where did my reply go???? I said that his mom told him not too ( he said that in an earlier thread).

macgeek2005 · Dec 31, 2006, 10:09 PM

Originally Posted by euchomai

Listen bro, the oil will still be on the blade it is okay. The extra oil will not hurt the blade it will only attract more dust and lint. Don't be so anal about it, you are being overly cautious with the blade here.

Honestly, what are you using it for? If it is for looks the cleaning will last quite a long time. If it is for killing, then you'll have to clean it after every battle.

Thanks. That's exactly what I wanted to hear.

And yes, my mom knows.

mrtew · Dec 31, 2006, 10:41 PM

Originally Posted by macgeek2005

Why is it that no matter where I go, and no matter what I say, people seem to not have an answer to my very very very VERY basic question.

Fine! Rubbing your blade with paper towels will leave the exact right amout of oil to prevent rust. Happy?

stevesnj · Dec 31, 2006, 10:50 PM

imitchellg5 · Dec 31, 2006, 11:10 PM

Luke Skywalker circa 1300?

analogika · Jan 1, 2007, 06:47 AM

John Belushi ca. 1978

KeyLimePi · Jan 1, 2007, 08:25 AM

Custom swords at low, low prices!™

ghporter · Jan 1, 2007, 10:14 AM

Any real blade steel needs to be oiled. Tool and stainless steel are less sensitive to moisture in the air and need less, but anyone who tells you that "stainless steel can't rust" is living in a dream world.

Before you oil a blade, it needs to be CLEAN. Traditional methods used to involve saki and rice paper (and I think had quite a bit of ritual to them), but whatever your method, you need to leave absolutely clean, bare steel when you're done. Once the blade is clean, apply oil. The oil you use is up to you, generally, but DO NOT USE A MULTIPURPOSE LUBRICANT PRODUCT LIKE "3 IN 1" OR WD-40." There is gunk in these that is BAD for all steel. Use at the very least, a light machine oil, such as is used for lubricating sewing machines or paper shredders. Apply it liberally and wipe it off thoroughly. If it "feels" like there's still oil on it, you haven't quite got it all off. The grain of the steel will retain enough oil for protection. If you leave too much on, it will attract and hold dust and gunk from the air, which is bad for the steel.

And WHEN (not if) you cut yourself with your shiny new blade, clean the blood off immediately; blood is the absolutely worst thing you can leave on a blade.

finboy · Jan 1, 2007, 10:46 AM

Originally Posted by moonmonkey

Do you parents know that you have a sword in the house?

Good question.

Paper towels? We're talking about a delicate instrument -- why would one use anything made out of wood to clean it? I thought the traditional cleaning sash (for blood, at least) was silk.

besson3c · Jan 1, 2007, 11:38 AM

I still think a little WD40 and steel wool would work well, and then call it a day.

P.S. I'm a ninja, so I should know this stuff.

starman · Jan 1, 2007, 12:04 PM

So much effort for something that hangs on the wall.

stevesnj · Jan 1, 2007, 12:22 PM

Originally Posted by starman

So much effort for something that hangs on the wall.

True...but its better than a rusty thing hanging on the wall

macgeek2005 · Jan 1, 2007, 12:33 PM

Originally Posted by ghporter

Any real blade steel needs to be oiled. Tool and stainless steel are less sensitive to moisture in the air and need less, but anyone who tells you that "stainless steel can't rust" is living in a dream world.

Before you oil a blade, it needs to be CLEAN. Traditional methods used to involve saki and rice paper (and I think had quite a bit of ritual to them), but whatever your method, you need to leave absolutely clean, bare steel when you're done. Once the blade is clean, apply oil. The oil you use is up to you, generally, but DO NOT USE A MULTIPURPOSE LUBRICANT PRODUCT LIKE "3 IN 1" OR WD-40." There is gunk in these that is BAD for all steel. Use at the very least, a light machine oil, such as is used for lubricating sewing machines or paper shredders. Apply it liberally and wipe it off thoroughly. If it "feels" like there's still oil on it, you haven't quite got it all off. The grain of the steel will retain enough oil for protection. If you leave too much on, it will attract and hold dust and gunk from the air, which is bad for the steel.

And WHEN (not if) you cut yourself with your shiny new blade, clean the blood off immediately; blood is the absolutely worst thing you can leave on a blade.

I know I came here asking for advice, so I shouldn't be arguing with what you guys tell me, but I don't agree.

If the previous oil isn't 100% gone before applying new oil, I don't see how that's a problem. As long as the blade remains protected, that's all that matters. It is after all, a piece of steel, and all I want is to protect it from rust.

mrtew · Jan 1, 2007, 01:14 PM

Originally Posted by ghporter

And WHEN (not if) you cut yourself with your shiny new blade, clean the blood off immediately; blood is the absolutely worst thing you can leave on a blade.

I'm sure if we put our heads together we can think of a bunch of worse things! In fact I'll start a list so we can quit worrying about dust...

1. Battery Acid
2. Cat-poo
3. Volcanic ash
4. ...

Nodnarb · Jan 1, 2007, 01:28 PM

Originally Posted by macgeek2005

I know I came here asking for advice, so I shouldn't be arguing with what you guys tell me, but I don't agree.

If the previous oil isn't 100% gone before applying new oil, I don't see how that's a problem. As long as the blade remains protected, that's all that matters. It is after all, a piece of steel, and all I want is to protect it from rust.

You are right, you shouldn't be arguing when asking for advice, it makes you seem overly arrogant, childish, and rude. Throughout this thread, you seem that way and apparently you pissed off your ninja forum enough to have to come to a mac forum asking about swords.

The few people on these boards who seem to know about swords have answered your question to the best of their abilities (because it seems you know nothing of swords) and you are complaining. Either follow the instructions you asked for or keep doing it your way with a paper towel and F up your new sword...which also seems odd that you are as young as you are, and you want a sword for no real reason. Why is it worth that much money and effort for something that you aren't even going to use? What's the point?

exca1ibur · Jan 1, 2007, 01:31 PM

Originally Posted by macgeek2005

I know I came here asking for advice, so I shouldn't be arguing with what you guys tell me, but I don't agree.

If the previous oil isn't 100% gone before applying new oil, I don't see how that's a problem. As long as the blade remains protected, that's all that matters. It is after all, a piece of steel, and all I want is to protect it from rust.

Why is it you ask a question and keep ignoring the answers?

The problem is this...

1) Old oil on the blade can cause it to settle with dirt, causing a buildup. That is why you want to remove old oil before you apply new oil and WHY a cleaning kit has a powder ball to make sure that the oil it removed.

2) DO NOT us WD-40. This will screw your blade up. Please ignore that post if any advice you take on this thread. Chemicals will destroy the blade. Blood and even fingerprints are bad for the blade over time because fingerprints have acid.

3) DO NOT use a paper towel. It is too rough and will scratch the blade as well. This is why your cleaning kit has rice paper, and not a handy wipe.You are dealing with carbon steel, NOT stainless steel. Carbon steel is less resistant to rust but is a stronger steel than stainless for a sword.

Also if you put too much oil what will happen in the long run it will coat the inside of the Saya and it will warp and collect moisture. So if you dont take it out often it will rust as well. Thats the main reason they tell you to use a LIGHT coat more so than for the protection of the blade.

P.S. ghporter is pretty much dead on.

macgeek2005 · Jan 1, 2007, 01:51 PM

Originally Posted by exca1ibur

Why is it you ask a question and keep ignoring the answers?

The problem is this...

1) Old oil on the blade can cause it to settle with dirt, causing a buildup. That is why you want to remove old oil before you apply new oil and WHY a cleaning kit has a powder ball to make sure that the oil it removed.

2) DO NOT us WD-40. This will screw your blade up. Please ignore that post if any advice you take on this thread. Chemicals will destroy the blade. Blood and even fingerprints are bad for the blade over time because fingerprints have acid.

3) DO NOT use a paper towel. It is too rough and will scratch the blade as well. This is why your cleaning kit has rice paper, and not a handy wipe.You are dealing with carbon steel, NOT stainless steel. Carbon steel is less resistant to rust but is a stronger steel than stainless for a sword.

Also if you put too much oil what will happen in the long run it will coat the inside of the Saya and it will warp and collect moisture. So if you dont take it out often it will rust as well. Thats the main reason they tell you to use a LIGHT coat more so than for the protection of the blade.

P.S. ghporter is pretty much dead on.

I firmly wipe the blade with a soft cloth before applying new oil. There is no dust or dirt on the blade when I put new oil...

exca1ibur · Jan 1, 2007, 02:09 PM

Good, that what you want.

Mrjinglesusa · Jan 1, 2007, 02:45 PM

Freakin' 13 year olds and their swords. lol

IceEnclosure · Jan 1, 2007, 04:06 PM

macgeek2005 -

are you retarded? seriously?

if we were all in the same room you know I'd have gotten some little kid to hit you by now.

Nodnarb · Jan 1, 2007, 04:09 PM

Originally Posted by IceEnclosure

macgeek2005 -

are you retarded? seriously?

You just made me spit my damn soda on my macbook!

Guess I need to start following the rules and not drink while reading 'NN...

IceEnclosure · Jan 1, 2007, 04:18 PM

Originally Posted by Nodnarb

You just made me spit my damn soda on my macbook!

Guess I need to start following the rules and not drink while reading 'NN...

use this thread for advice on cleaning up the macbook. if you've wiped it off a bunch of times, there's probably still soda on it. wipe it some more. use shampoo for the final cleaning. then hang it on the wall or swing it at a friend.

SpaceMonkey · Jan 1, 2007, 04:26 PM

Originally Posted by IceEnclosure

use this thread for advice on cleaning up the macbook. if you've wiped it off a bunch of times, there's probably still soda on it. wipe it some more. use shampoo for the final cleaning. then hang it on the wall or swing it at a friend.

I've also heard (from a friend) that, like to katanas, blood is very damaging to MacBooks if you don't clean it off right away. Or maybe that was some other bodily fluid. I can't remember.

besson3c · Jan 1, 2007, 05:11 PM

I don't know anything about swords, because as a master ninja I just have sponsors that provide me with swords, and I can use any sword in the world.

However, I've always used WD40, a sharpening stone, some steel wool, a pencil sharper, and another sword to sharpen my main sword. I do this right before using my sword on things like dolphins.

Nodnarb · Jan 1, 2007, 05:25 PM

Originally Posted by IceEnclosure

use this thread for advice on cleaning up the macbook. if you've wiped it off a bunch of times, there's probably still soda on it. wipe it some more. use shampoo for the final cleaning. then hang it on the wall or swing it at a friend.

No no, the thin layer of soda can never be cleared off of the macbook I need to rub it in with paper towels I think that cleans it. Shampoo would work, however I prefer conditioner on the screen of the macbook...leaves a brighter shine.

And swing it at a friend? Blasphemy! I intend to get as little usage of the macbook as possible...anyone know of any good wall mounts?

besson3c · Jan 1, 2007, 05:41 PM

Shouldn't this thread be in the sword section of this forum?

ghporter · Jan 1, 2007, 06:19 PM

Originally Posted by macgeek2005

I know I came here asking for advice, so I shouldn't be arguing with what you guys tell me, but I don't agree.

If the previous oil isn't 100% gone before applying new oil, I don't see how that's a problem. As long as the blade remains protected, that's all that matters. It is after all, a piece of steel, and all I want is to protect it from rust.

The previous oil will be contaminated by environmental gunk (mostly dust) and be thinned by whatever you cleaned the rest of it off with. Cleaning is at least as important as oiling.

Originally Posted by mrtew

I'm sure if we put our heads together we can think of a bunch of worse things! In fact I'll start a list so we can quit worrying about dust...

1. Battery Acid
2. Cat-poo
3. Volcanic ash
4. ...

Wrong. Battery acid is relatively weak at corroding good-quality steel, while blood, having a relatively high electrolyte content is much stronger. Cat poo only seems to be a damaging material-it's good for your flower beds if the neighborhood cats don't dig up the flowers when they provide the fertilizer.

Volcanic ash is benign-and can be used as a mild abrasive if needed to scrub gunk off the blade... Seriously, blood is BAD for any steel. And if a person handles any properly sharpened blade much at all, they WILL cut themselves. If it's really properly sharpened, the person may not even notice it until they see the blood.

Originally Posted by IceEnclosure

macgeek2005 -

are you retarded? seriously?

if we were all in the same room you know I'd have gotten some little kid to hit you by now.

Originally Posted by IceEnclosure

use this thread for advice on cleaning up the macbook. if you've wiped it off a bunch of times, there's probably still soda on it. wipe it some more. use shampoo for the final cleaning. then hang it on the wall or swing it at a friend.

You DO realize that the whole New Years' celebration was YESTERDAY, right? You're supposed to stop drinking some time before sunrise...

IceEnclosure · Jan 1, 2007, 06:54 PM

true

:sigh:

ghporter · Jan 1, 2007, 08:21 PM

Originally Posted by IceEnclosure

true

:sigh:

The bad news is that a recent study shows that the only real cure for a hangover is not to get one in the first place. Sorry. (I stayed with ONE type of booze last night-really good M&C champagne, and thus avoided after effects. It was expensive, but worth it!)