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Prosthetic Makeup (Page 4)
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Jun 17, 2014, 11:39 PM
 
I think catholic uniforms, it's more plaid headband, not pigtails. But then, i suspect I'm not your target audience.
     
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Jun 18, 2014, 12:37 AM
 
Illuminated fluid tubes sounds good. Circulating the fluid with the occasional air bubble would be better. I think you'd need two pumps. A 12v fluid pump for recirculation, and a small aquarium air pump to add periodic bubbles.
     
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Jun 18, 2014, 12:43 AM
 
We talked about that today. Definitely an advanced project.
     
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Jun 18, 2014, 12:53 AM
 
Just tell people her Borg condition is still getting worse.
     
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Jun 18, 2014, 01:13 AM
 
Originally Posted by andi*pandi View Post
I think catholic uniforms, it's more plaid headband, not pigtails. But then, i suspect I'm not your target audience.
If I can't lure you in with a cyborg zombie... I give up.

That's actually an important part of us using overt sexual themes. Those characters are never approachable.

Like, undead robot unapproachable.
     
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Jun 18, 2014, 01:16 AM
 
Originally Posted by reader50 View Post
Just tell people her Borg condition is still getting worse.
That will actually happen. Next project is a robogauntlet!
     
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Jun 18, 2014, 01:47 AM
 
Question about the spray paint chrome... I get it doesn't take to surfaces well, and I should prime what I'm painting.

Any idea how the applied faux chrome paint takes other paint? Like, say, a black acrylic wash to "dirty it up"?
     
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Jun 18, 2014, 07:39 PM
 
Picked up some surgical glue. I do the dollar coin test later. The mask weighs out to about 6 coins using my hands as a scale. That may be too hard of a test, on both the glue, and my skin, which brings it into the "how tough (and/or stupid) you are" territory.

On a more practical level, if I can swing the full stack without requiring first-aid, I then have that card in my deck if the singer gets skittish about the idea. She's still out of the loop on this. I want to have all my ducks in a row before I pitch it to her.


But instead of testing that, right now I'm grousing about having to drive out of the city to buy spray paint. Have I mentioned that irritates me?
     
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Jun 18, 2014, 07:56 PM
 
I'm starting to reverse on the illuminated tubes. I'm doubtful of getting enough juice out of them to compete with stage lights. Might be better to go with an opaque, day-glo color inside the tube.
     
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Jun 18, 2014, 09:03 PM
 
Take a peek at what freedom looks like.

     
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Jun 18, 2014, 09:44 PM
 
They make christmas lights that tiny, in tubes, that are battery operated (disguise battery pack as neckband? Also, you could use glow stick necklaces as tubes (if the ends were submerged in a convenient nuthole.

Glow Products, Glow In the Dark Products, Glow In the Dark Items
     
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Jun 18, 2014, 10:11 PM
 
Let the adhesive test begin!

     
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Jun 18, 2014, 10:16 PM
 
Originally Posted by andi*pandi View Post
They make christmas lights that tiny, in tubes, that are battery operated (disguise battery pack as neckband? Also, you could use glow stick necklaces as tubes (if the ends were submerged in a convenient nuthole.

Glow Products, Glow In the Dark Products, Glow In the Dark Items
In a way, that's the problem right there. If I use a glow stick, it'll read like a glow stick (and probably not be bright enough to register under the stage lights). That makes her a rave zombie.
     
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Jun 18, 2014, 11:04 PM
 
About an hour into this adhesive test... let's just say I'm happy I have remover.
     
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Jun 18, 2014, 11:49 PM
 
As I'm getting ready to start some painting with my contraband from north of the border, I'd love any and all input on making my paint job durable.

All I really understand on a basic level is...

1) Best to use multiple, very light coats of spray paint

2) That's it. There is no two.


I guess I'm hoping there's some form of "magic shellac" which is diamond hard. Also, invisible.


As an aside, I've still got a mother****ing roll of coins stuck to my head.
     
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Jun 19, 2014, 12:44 AM
 
Remove the coins from the roll. Won't help with the girl, but you can sleep tonight.
     
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Jun 19, 2014, 12:52 AM
 
I've got a big bottle of remover with my forehead written all over it.

I'm thinking 15 more minutes. I figure three hours constitutes eating my own dog food.
     
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Jun 19, 2014, 05:25 AM
 
Originally Posted by subego View Post
As I'm getting ready to start some painting with my contraband from north of the border, I'd love any and all input on making my paint job durable.

All I really understand on a basic level is...

1) Best to use multiple, very light coats of spray paint

2) That's it. There is no two.


I guess I'm hoping there's some form of "magic shellac" which is diamond hard. Also, invisible.
Yes, light coats. Don't put a clear coat on "chrome" paint - it'll make it look dull grey. I hate "chrome" paint. Had no luck with it drying properly, although maybe it's just the brand I've used.

I put a black acrylic wash over this a few weeks ago, after painting it "gloss aluminium".

     
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Jun 19, 2014, 07:03 AM
 
If you're going for a Borg look, you don't need shiny chrome. On the other hand, a Terminator look needs to be shiny. The flat or burnished look is easy with typical spray paints and will take weathering with an acrylic wash pretty easily. For a shiny chrome look, look for model paint. Google "mirror chrome model paint" for that stuff. It's great for making polystyrene look like high-polished metal.

Glenn -----OTR/L, MOT, Tx
     
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Jun 19, 2014, 10:00 AM
 
Bare Metal Foil?
     
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Jun 19, 2014, 06:13 PM
 
I wouldn't jump all the way to foil unless I can't get anything with spray paint. This stuff isn't too bad...



Still wet in this photo, and at the moment I type this. Likewise, it's got 2 very thick undercoats of other (failed) spray paint varieties. This one is the... lemme check... "Rustoleum Silver Metallic" flavor. Seems decent, and is bright enough it will take a wash well.

Chrome isn't required, I was only thinking in that direction because the tattoo is my inspiration.
     
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Jun 19, 2014, 06:57 PM
 
Two things...

1) Forgot the "holy shit!" for the Metropolis model... holy shit!

2) I welcome ideas for attaching things to a stick (and what stick to use) for easy spray painting. The hot glue to a chopstick worked for this tester, but isn't really removable. At least the way I did it.
     
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Jun 19, 2014, 08:39 PM
 
Originally Posted by subego View Post
This one is the... lemme check... "Rustoleum Silver Metallic" flavor. Seems decent, and is bright enough it will take a wash well.
Ha! That's the exact same paint I used for this bike:

     
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Jun 19, 2014, 09:12 PM
 
Originally Posted by subego View Post
2) I welcome ideas for attaching things to a stick (and what stick to use) for easy spray painting. The hot glue to a chopstick worked for this tester, but isn't really removable.
what worked for pine derby cars (and should be easier for you, since presumably the underside of yours won't be seen:

small piece of 2x4, 3 nails in triangle shape. rest model on top. You may need to stagger the height of your nails.

for added finesse, place/glue 2x4 to a lazy susan. spray and turn.
     
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Jun 19, 2014, 09:24 PM
 
Originally Posted by subego View Post
I welcome ideas for attaching things to a stick (and what stick to use) for easy spray painting. The hot glue to a chopstick worked for this tester, but isn't really removable. At least the way I did it.
I just lay things like that on a small block of wood resting on a backing board (to catch the overspray).

Why you gotta overthink everything?

Know what would be perfect for this job? Cold casting - clear resin mixed with aluminium powder to give a proper metallic effect. That's how my Cyberman head was made.
     
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Jun 19, 2014, 10:43 PM
 
If my sculpt was as good as the cyberman, I could use a method like that. As it stands, I'm going to want a somewhat distressed look to help cover the imperfections.
     
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Jun 19, 2014, 11:06 PM
 
Kudos to the singer. Her attitude was basically "of course we want to glue it on".
     
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Jun 19, 2014, 11:52 PM
 
I buried the lead... the mask fit!
     
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Jun 19, 2014, 11:58 PM
 


Ssssssmokin!
     
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Jun 20, 2014, 03:57 AM
 
I hate when this sort of thing happens...



This is my paint tester (hence the chopstick ). That's my first light coat of silver over black primer.

Looks frigging awesome, and I have no idea if I can replicate it.
     
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Jun 20, 2014, 09:22 AM
 
Originally Posted by andi*pandi View Post
what worked for pine derby cars (and should be easier for you, since presumably the underside of yours won't be seen:

small piece of 2x4, 3 nails in triangle shape. rest model on top. You may need to stagger the height of your nails.

for added finesse, place/glue 2x4 to a lazy susan. spray and turn.
Here's the "industrially made" version: Painter's Pyramids at Home Depot.

They go well with a turntable to allow access to everything, and the advantage is that misting for effects is easier (a little spritz of paint sort of over the item gets you some interesting effects).

Glenn -----OTR/L, MOT, Tx
     
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Jun 20, 2014, 09:23 AM
 
Originally Posted by Laminar View Post
Ha! That's the exact same paint I used for this bike:

I had the touring version of that bike way back in the 80s. It was awesome! Yours looks fantastic.

Glenn -----OTR/L, MOT, Tx
     
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Jun 20, 2014, 02:53 PM
 
I like all the lazy susan ideas. I was always taught "work the object, don't let the object work you".

Part of this is lazy subego. If I tarped up more of the garage, I could use a block of wood, but that's not ideal. The mask is basically a hemisphere. It's pretty helpful to be able to orient the sides towards me.
     
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Jun 21, 2014, 03:07 AM
 
Here's what may seem like a dopey question...

Do I let each light coat of spray paint dry, and then do another light coat, or do I do a bunch of light coats at once?

If the former, what's a reasonable drying time? The 30 minutes they say on the bottle would drive me batshit.
     
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Jun 21, 2014, 11:20 AM
 
Originally Posted by subego View Post
Here's what may seem like a dopey question...

Do I let each light coat of spray paint dry, and then do another light coat, or do I do a bunch of light coats at once?

If the former, what's a reasonable drying time? The 30 minutes they say on the bottle would drive me batshit.
Let the coat get tacky - not wet, but not dry. I usually just give it a couple minutes between coats.
     
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Jun 21, 2014, 04:40 PM
 
And this is an even dopier question...

What exactly am I getting out of using light coats?
     
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Jun 21, 2014, 05:27 PM
 
I'm asking because I don't think I care all that much about a perfectly even thickness of coat. If it won't make the paint job more resistant to damage, why should I bother?
     
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Jun 21, 2014, 06:57 PM
 
with spray paint if you don't do light coats, you get drips.
     
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Jun 21, 2014, 07:14 PM
 
I finally got the hang of the "slosh" method with the resin (see pix down a couple posts), but there's no way I can do it properly on this mold without letting 90% go completely over the sides. The only way I can get it up to the edges of the mold is to slosh it completely over the side and use my hand as a backstop. At some point (preferably before it starts firming up) I have to dump everything, or else I get a thick pool at the bottom of the mold. That's extremely undesirable because at the bottom of the mold is where the goggle is going to go. Anything over 5mm will need to be chopped off.

If I try to leave most of the resin in, it's a crap shoot whether I can get the extra out of the pool in the bottom, and in my attempts to keep the resin in the mold, will get paper thin edges, if I can even get up to the edge.

With Slosh 2.0, I only get a paper thin coating of the resin, but at least it's covering the whole mold. A few more coats got that to a millimeter or two, and then I used multiple, small pours to thicken up where needed. The real discovery is it's much easier to slosh resin on resin, as opposed to resin on rubber.
( Last edited by subego; Jun 21, 2014 at 08:27 PM. )
     
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Jun 21, 2014, 07:23 PM
 
Originally Posted by andi*pandi View Post
with spray paint if you don't do light coats, you get drips.
Okay... that's good to know. I've had drips, but the surface area on this is so small they end up just dripping off. Seems like a may be able to swing a more "medium" coat, at least for the primer.

For some reason I thought the light coats were to improve adhesion.


In regards to that. One of today's jobs is a trip to the art supply store and see what my options are in terms of protective coating. Amongst the many issues I'm going to have with potential scratches and the like, is being manhandled and hit with acetone during removal.

I really hope the acetone doesn't melt the putty I want to use as standoffs for the adhesive. Yet another experiment to run tonight.
     
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Jun 21, 2014, 07:38 PM
 
Here's Slosh 2.0 from the front. You can see I let things go well past the edge of the mask.



The part which is reminiscent of a jet engine intake, with the two vertical lines, that's where I can't have it pool, because all that stuff to the right gets cut away. I don't want that part any thicker than the clay I used to sculpt it. On some of my "all at once casts", I have 20mm of resin right at that union. It would take me far longer to saw all that away than recast.
     
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Jun 21, 2014, 07:41 PM
 
And here's the backside.

     
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Jun 21, 2014, 07:53 PM
 
Here's a botched "all at once" attempt. I got up to the edges, but a lot of them are almost transparently thin, and I've got all that extra resin exactly where I don't need it. That would all have to get chopped away.

( Last edited by subego; Jun 21, 2014 at 08:04 PM. )
     
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Jun 21, 2014, 08:00 PM
 
Here's a bonus pic of me trying to add on to the basecoat, at the point right before I totally ****ed it up with further experimentation.



I thought the "chunky" paint on the cap nuts would work nicely with a wash, but that wasn't happening.

Honestly, it feels kinda "cosplay" to me, and I mean that in the worst way possible.
     
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Jun 21, 2014, 11:30 PM
 
What's worse, now I put the goggle with it, the perfection in its molding and mirror job highlight the flaws in my sculpt.

My impulse is to give the mask a copper basecoat, but the director isn't thrilled with the idea (though understanding of how this kind of thing happens).
     
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Jun 21, 2014, 11:41 PM
 


Apparently, she's gonna blow.
     
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Jun 21, 2014, 11:56 PM
 
Originally Posted by subego View Post
What's worse, now I put the goggle with it, the perfection in its molding and mirror job highlight the flaws in my sculpt.
Did you sand the faces smooth after you cast it?

Originally Posted by subego View Post
My impulse is to give the mask a copper basecoat, but the director isn't thrilled with the idea (though understanding of how this kind of thing happens).
Copper is for steampunk IMO. I'd just paint the whole thing in a gloss aluminium and put a black wash over it.
     
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Jun 22, 2014, 12:32 AM
 
Agree 100% about the steampunk, but at least it gives me contrast with the goggle.

Haven't sanded, or really prepped any of the testers, which is part of the problem. The junky edges are throwing me off. Overall though, I'm not convinced sanding and the like is capable of fixing the problem.
     
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Jun 22, 2014, 12:49 AM
 
What would you suggest as to a series of grits to get me where I need to be?
     
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Jun 22, 2014, 12:58 AM
 
The mask looks great, as of the last pic. The goggle is chrome, which is the problem. Suggest you add the goggle, then do a little paint brushing on it to tone the chrome down, bring it closer to the mask.
     
 
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