[osmononame]

Hi, I have a Rev A iMac G5 1.8 and it is refusing to power up. The serial number falls with the range of the repair extension program and so i took it to my local AASP but they determined the problem to be the power supply and not the logic board and so refused the repair (and quoted me an obscene amount to fix it). I know it is pretty common for G5 power supplies to pop and so was wondering if anyone has tried to fix their power supply themselves (replace the bulging capacitors) or get Apple to make an exception for them and replace it for free?

Any help appreciated,

[Waragainstsleep]

Call Apple. There have been REPs on both logic and CPU on various model of these iMacs. Apple keeps tweaking the terms and the procedures for processing them. Its quite easy for a technician to get confused about whats covered. If you get them to issue a CS code, then the repair place will have to cover it free.
PSUs are not that much for these either. They shouldn't be charging anything too ridiculous anyway. Its a 15 minute job if that. Maybe 20 if you count the time to place the order for the part. And have a coffee break.

[osmononame]

Hi, thanks, ill call them in the morning what what the technician told me was that only the 20 inch G5 had a recall on the power supply. The 17 inch only had a recall on the logic board (according to him that is).The price he quoted me on the PSU was reasonable but then labour on top of that made it too expensive (add a little more and i could buy a mac mini with my educational discount). I did ask if he would sell the PSU separately and i could install it myself but apparently he is not allowed to do that. Anyway once again thanks for the info and i will definitely be giving apple a call in the morning to see what they say.

thanks,

[P]

Writing "iMac G5 power supply" into Google gets several hits to companies that sell PSUs and also one link to instructions on how to replace it. The tech is right, btw, the program was only for 20"ers.

[IceEnclosure]

I have the 20 incher that was covered, got my PSU replaced for free. For what it's worth, the price of the PSU on the Apple receipt was $70 US.

Also, they called me about an hour after I dropped it off to let me know it was complete, so it definitely isn't hard to install!

[clotter]

I had the same problem. After I troubleshooted the unit: iMac G5: Troubleshooting when your computer won't turn on I realized that the power supply was dead.

The quote I received to replace the PSU was $129 ($79 for parts, $50 for labor). The Apple service website indicated that the unit (identified by serial number) was out of service.

A local Apple dealer replaced the power supply for FREE even
though it was listed as “out of warranty” on the Apple service web-page. They obtained approval from Apple. This is the second power supply that Apple has replaced on my first generation 20″ iMac G5 that was purchased in the summer of 2004 (EMC = 2008). Additionally, Apple replaced the logic board for free on this same machine about a year ago. I do NOT have the AppleCare extended warranty for this machine.

Apple does care.

[mbuehl]

I have very similar if not the same problem (EMC is 2008). Spending hundrets of dollars for power supply and possibly logic board sounds scary.
Was wondering if you could share the address of the Apple dealership place that gave you such a good treatment.
Thank you in advance.
Michael

[mbuehl]

Originally Posted by clotter 

I had the same problem. After I troubleshooted the unit: iMac G5: Troubleshooting when your computer won't turn on I realized that the power supply was dead.

The quote I received to replace the PSU was $129 ($79 for parts, $50 for labor). The Apple service website indicated that the unit (identified by serial number) was out of service.

A local Apple dealer replaced the power supply for FREE even
though it was listed as “out of warranty” on the Apple service web-page. They obtained approval from Apple. This is the second power supply that Apple has replaced on my first generation 20″ iMac G5 that was purchased in the summer of 2004 (EMC = 2008). Additionally, Apple replaced the logic board for free on this same machine about a year ago. I do NOT have the AppleCare extended warranty for this machine.

Apple does care.

Could you, please, post some more specific information regarding the Apple service state/location ?
Was that an Apple store or service ?

[Laila]

Originally Posted by clotter 

I had the same problem. After I troubleshooted the unit: iMac G5: Troubleshooting when your computer won't turn on I realized that the power supply was dead.

The quote I received to replace the PSU was $129 ($79 for parts, $50 for labor). The Apple service website indicated that the unit (identified by serial number) was out of service.

A local Apple dealer replaced the power supply for FREE even
though it was listed as “out of warranty” on the Apple service web-page. They obtained approval from Apple. This is the second power supply that Apple has replaced on my first generation 20″ iMac G5 that was purchased in the summer of 2004 (EMC = 2008). Additionally, Apple replaced the logic board for free on this same machine about a year ago. I do NOT have the AppleCare extended warranty for this machine.

Apple does care.

Hi

can you please let me know what EMC=2008 means? I just got powerfailure, I believe, for my iMac G5 that was purchased in the fall of 2004 with serial number that falls under the extended Service Agreement. I'm excited to see that you were helped with yours, now I'll have to take mine in and see if I get same good treatment. Still curious about the EMC=2008. Would you mind?


Laila

[hoodmulti]

Apple tried to charge me US$200 for fixing their power supply here in HK, so I waited over 6 months for someone on earth found a way to convert a regular PC ATX power for use on my iMac G5.

Here is the power supply pinout and swapping a few cables to get it work on my iMac G5.
Resurrected the dead iMac G5 - 摸石過河 - 摸石過河 - Yahoo! BLOG

I left the +24V slot empty, and the computer still works perfectly.
Let me know if you know what that +24V is for.

[ketterling]

Please realize that Apple's repair extension program for the original iMac G5 last for THREE YEARS from the date of purchase. We purchased ours more than 3 years ago, so failure now (I have 3 that have failed) is not repaired for free!

If anyone has information that isn't already covered here, I'd like to hear about it.

Carl

[mbuehl]

Originally Posted by Laila 

Hi

can you please let me know what EMC=2008 means? I just got powerfailure, I believe, for my iMac G5 that was purchased in the fall of 2004 with serial number that falls under the extended Service Agreement. I'm excited to see that you were helped with yours, now I'll have to take mine in and see if I get same good treatment. Still curious about the EMC=2008. Would you mind?


Laila

EMC number can be found on the bottom part of the G5 stand (together with serial and model).
I just got my Imac G5 (EMC=2008 - meaning first generation of G5's) repaired for free. Giving away the apple dealership name in New Jersey - Transnet Corp. The purchase has been made during Summer of 2004.
So the extention program was working out for the computer older than 3 years.
I hope that helps. I did not have to pay a dime!
Apple has covered everything: the triage and power supply replacement.

Hope that helps.
Michael

[mousemusic]

I've just bought a replacement PSU from the USA and thought I'd got a good deal thanks to the favourable (to me) dollar/sterling rate. But it blew up of course when I plugged it in because it was a 110V model. Doh!

So I'm back to thinking about repairing my original blown PSU. If I replace all the caps it'll cost me £9.90+VAT from RS, though I have to buy 5 of each kind of cap. If this works I'll have quite a few caps spare, if anyone wants them.

Here goes... fingers crossed! I'll let you know how it goes.

[mousemusic]

Well, what do you know? It only bleeding well worked! What a welcome sound that bong was! The repair cost me around £10 and about an hour's work. Even after taking into account the blown-up American PSU that's cheaper than any replacement I've seen on the web. I have spare caps if you want to attempt it yourself, or I will do it for you for a nominal fee if you can pay the postage.

Wahay!

I never usually use smileys, but...

[email protected]

These are the caps I replaced (all 105C type):
1 x 16v 1200uF
1 x 6.3v 4700uF
3 x 6.3v 1000uF
1 x 10v 1000uF
These were the ones which were obviously blown. You may need to replace different caps on your board, but basically the rule of thumb is: replace any caps which are bulging, split or leaking fluid.

[mavherzog]

I've had two 17" G5 iMac's repaired under the repair extension program. In both cases, they replaced BOTH the logic board and the power supply.

[mousemusic]

OK, I've had several people contact me now about how to do this, so to save everyone time, a few pointers:

- Check your battery first (but be CAREFUL - the retaining clip has a nasty habit of snapping off). No point messing with the PSU if the battery's no good.
- If you need a new battery, get a standard CR2032 coin cell. If you do snap off the retaining clip, get a new standard 20mm coin cell holder from any electronics supplier, such as RS or Maplin.
- Open the PSU with a torx driver the right size. Don't bother trying to cut corners with a hex key or flat driver. those torx screws are soft and are a right pain to get out if you strip the heads.
- Draw a simple diagram of the positions of the caps on your PSU circuit board. All the faulty caps will be together on one side of and below the heatsink. Scrape away the putty around their bases so you can move them a little to read the ratings printed on them and note down which ones go where. We're only talking about the tall, cylindrical caps on legs here. Not lentil-shaped or rectangular ones.
- When buying replacements, get radial electrolytic capacitors, 105degree type, rated as per your diagram in Volts (V) and microFarads (uF).
- Unsolder them all (short out their legs first as a precaution) and clean up the board contacts. Might as well replace them all, not just obviously faulty ones, while you're in there.
- Solder the new ones in, making sure they are the RIGHT WAY ROUND. Leg on side of cap printed with white or yellow stripe goes in hole on board printed with white semicircle.
- Reassemble, cross fingers and power on.

Have fun!

Matt