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RAILhead · Mar 30, 2006, 12:45 PM

Kicking around a new hobby: home film development. Here's the skinny:

1. I'll be shooting 35mm and 120 color.
2. I only want to develop negatives because I'll be scanning to print.
3. I know the basic hardware I need, but I'm clueless about which chemicals.

I started a wish list at B&H Photo to organize what I need:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...&li=1ADF7F5335

All I have so far is the changing bag, a thermometer, and a Jobo reel tank (I got the bigger one since it was only $32). Can anyone pop over to the B&H Photo site and hook me up with some item numbers for any other basic equipment I'll need?

TIA,
Maury

RAILhead · Mar 30, 2006, 12:53 PM

Looks like this covers the Developer and Fixer:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...goryNavigation

Is this what I need?

misc · Mar 30, 2006, 01:02 PM

Both 35 and 120 in color?

Mastrap · Mar 30, 2006, 01:07 PM

Have you considered starting with b/w? Very much easier, and give you a good feel for what's needed. Like threading film into a tank in the dark etc. Many jobs you can do under red light for b/w need to be done in total darkness for colour.

misc · Mar 30, 2006, 01:09 PM

Originally Posted by Mastrap

Have you considered starting with b/w? Very much easier, and give you a good feel for what's needed. Like threading film into a tank in the dark etc. Many jobs you can do under red light for b/w need to be done in total darkness for colour.

A very good suggestion. Black and White darkroom work is very fun. I can help you get started developing black and white film (HP5 or C-41).

Dr Reducto · Mar 30, 2006, 01:36 PM

Originally Posted by Mastrap

Have you considered starting with b/w? Very much easier, and give you a good feel for what's needed. Like threading film into a tank in the dark etc. Many jobs you can do under red light for b/w need to be done in total darkness for colour.

If he's not doing prints, it for the most part doesn't matter. Film has to be kept completely in the dark until fixed.

Although color films are a lot more finicky than B/W when it comes to chem temps

RAILhead · Mar 30, 2006, 01:50 PM

Color is my main want, but B&W is also in the mix. So then, back to my original post, what other items do I need that aren't already in my Wish List (linked above)?

Goldfinger · Mar 30, 2006, 02:02 PM

Doing colour yourself is a pain and ultimately probably more expensive. B&W is fun.

ChrisF · Mar 30, 2006, 02:04 PM

Originally Posted by RAILhead

Color is my main want, but B&W is also in the mix. So then, back to my original post, what other items do I need that aren't already in my Wish List (linked above)?

Color chemistry is extremely sensitive to temperature control and in general it's a fairly big PITA to develop color film consistently. You'll be much better off paying someone to develop it- the color will almost certainly vary from batch to batch with home development unless you have a means to ensure that the water temp does not vary by more than something like 1/2 degree.
Also consider that used color chemistry is not the sort of thing you want to dump into your septic system if you have one.

RAILhead · Mar 30, 2006, 02:06 PM

Not trying to be an ungrateful smartass or anything -- but I take it no one can help with my grocery list? I'm not looking for opinions about what I'm doing, I'm looking for help getting the chemicals I need from those of you that know already.

Goldfinger · Mar 30, 2006, 02:12 PM

Well. You'll need something like Agepon.

misc · Mar 30, 2006, 03:17 PM

Originally Posted by RAILhead

Not trying to be an ungrateful smartass or anything -- but I take it no one can help with my grocery list? I'm not looking for opinions about what I'm doing, I'm looking for help getting the chemicals I need from those of you that know already.

Call Ilford.

GFitzy · Mar 30, 2006, 03:49 PM

you'll also want to consider the proper disposal of the used chemicals. The drain is NOT an option!

As a hobby, doing the developing yourself is enjoyable but many pro camera shops offer developing only and this yields consistent results. One way to learn proper methods is to expose two rolls indentically and then do one yourself and have the camera shop do the other. Compare the results to see how well you're doing controlling temp and times for each step.

Have fun and remember to wear protective glasses or goggles!

-GFitzy

SimeyTheLimey · Mar 30, 2006, 11:10 PM

Off and on I have been developing film since the early 80s. I've done B/W, C-41 and E-6. I even did it professionally for a few years. In my opinion, developing negatives is just a mechanical exercise and not fun at all.

There are also many opportunities to screw up your precious negatives. You have to be careful about fogging, crimping, waterspots, dust, misloading, temperature, exhausted chemicals, misdiluted chemicals, and so on. There are also other opprtunities to screw up like underfixing, underdeveloping, overdeveloping, cross contaminating. I have done all the above. I even once processed a roll of film in pure water because I forgot to add the concentrate.

Just send your film to a lab. It's much easier.

RAILhead · Mar 30, 2006, 11:55 PM

Not when no one in your area develops MF.

keekeeree · Mar 31, 2006, 12:43 AM

Originally Posted by RAILhead

Not when no one in your area develops MF.

If you're shooting MF for the inherint quality associated with the larger negative, then you need to worry about the quality and consistancy of your chemicals. This being the case, you need this and this.

If you're just screwing around with MF just for the fun of it, save yourself a lot of hassle, time and money and simply find a reputable developer you can mail your stuff to (there are professionals that do this also).

Mastrap · Mar 31, 2006, 07:33 AM

No professional photographer I've worked with in my entire career has developed their own film. Everything goes to a reputable lab. You start with a test of three to four frames and then decide whether the result wants to be pushed or, rarely, pulled.

I agree with Simey. Developing colour film is a PITA and nothing is more annoying than finding that a great shot has been ruined during development. B/w is easy and quick, but colour isn't.

I too would find a good lab and send my film in.

pathogen · Mar 31, 2006, 09:17 AM

Railhead, I don't know because I've never done it at home, so I can't advise you. My tip for people here who are advising getting it developped professionally, when you can't locally, is to talk about film mailers.

I use A&I (in Los Angeles) mailers for my 120 film. I live in NYC and there are lot's of places to get 120 developped, but I was recommended A&I because they are generally careful about dust and scratches and send my negatives back in good health for scanning. B&H sells their mailers cheaper than A&I do directly: link.

For a little extra, they'll do a 2MB scan. Drumscanning (best way to go) is a lot more.

Mastrap · Mar 31, 2006, 09:55 AM

Originally Posted by pathogen

I use A&I (in Los Angeles) mailers for my 120 film. I live in NYC

I would suggest finding a local lab and building a relationship with them. Once the technician knows you, what you like and what you're shooting he/she can make all the difference to your images.

pathogen · Mar 31, 2006, 11:19 AM

Originally Posted by Mastrap

I would suggest finding a local lab and building a relationship with them. Once the technician knows you, what you like and what you're shooting he/she can make all the difference to your images.

I appreciate what you're saying. Generally, I only shoot about 5 rolls of 120 film a year, so it's not enough to have anyone really remember me at a lab. I've heard mixed things about Duggal Labs here in the city, but I would try L&I, CLAB, Alkit, or another if I had a really good recommendation. I use color print negatives instead of slides, usually a 100 ASA or 400 ASA vivid color film. Sometimes I use the Fuji with less contrast that's a bit less saturated than the Portra (can't remember the name, though). My routine right now is to simply scan the prints on my Canoscan LIDE and save the negatives for a rainy day. If I ever get a shot worth printing with a lightjet (I haven't yet), I'll get it drumscanned.

I admire Maury for wanting to get his hands dirty and make this an all encompassing hobby, and control as much of the process as possible. In the end, he can say he really did most of the work himself, which is a very good "atelier" attitude. Railhead, maybe you should take a developping class or get a tutor for the first few tries at developping your rolls?

SimeyTheLimey · Mar 31, 2006, 08:30 PM

Originally Posted by RAILhead

Not when no one in your area develops MF.

There aren't that many areas with *no* medium format processing. Most places have professional photographers and therefore most places have a professional lab available. Your local drug store won't do it, and probably couldn't tell you what medium format is, but a professional lab will be able to help you. Just ask your local wedding photographers who they send their Hasselblad negatives to. Even if they have gone digital, the odds are they know the local labs.

All else failing, you can mail 'em. I used to send my portrait work out to a place in Michigan when I did it professionally. They gave me the mailers and everything. Then I found a place called ABC Photo and Imaging out in Manassas, VA. I still mail my film occasionally.

If all you are going to do is scan your work, you might want to consider E6. It is much easier to balance the color when scanning a slide than a negative. Plus, the professional processing is usually cheaper and quicker. Most pro labs can turn around a roll of E6 in as little as 4 hours -- or even less if you are willing to put a rush on it.